August 2022 - Shrimp & Corn Succotash

SHRIMP & CORN SUCCOTASH

About the Recipe

Corn is a summer fave and I adore every possible kind of succotash. Singing of summer, succotash is best prepared when corn is at its peak, usually late July through September depending where you live. This version exhibits almost every color or the rainbow and is gorgeous. You can add bacon or crumbled sausage to this recipe but I like it exactly as it is. Another option is to omit the shrimp and serve the succotash as a veggie side course or vegetarian main. I tend to like it hot but warm or room temperature is rave-worthy as well.

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SHRIMP & CORN SUCCOTASH

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

For the Salmon:

•  2 tablespoons butter

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 large  onions, peeled and coarsely chopped

• 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and diced (optional)

• 8 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 

• 1 small jalapeno pepper (less or more to taste), seeds removed and very thinly sliced

• 1 tablespoon toasted whole fennel seed

• Several sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

• Large pinch red pepper flakes (more or less to taste)

• zest (grated or slivers) of 1 large lemon

• ½ cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley

• ½ cup julienned or coarsely chopped basil

• 2 scallions (green and white parts) thinly slices horizontally

• ½ teaspoon sea salt

• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 6 ears corn, husked and cut off the cob

• 2 pounds cleaned and shelled medium shrimp

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Method

1. In a very large skillet, Dutch oven or sauteuse, melt the butter with the  olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, bell pepper if using, garlic, jalapeno, fennel seed, thyme, red pepper, lemon peel, half the parsley, half the basil, and half the scallions.

2. Sauté over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent. Add salt and pepper and continue to cook and stir until onions and garlic are golden.

3. Turn the heat to medium high. Add the corn and cook, stirring, until tender, hot and caramelized. 

4. Push the corn mixture to  the sides of the pan and add the shrimp to the bare center of the pan. Cook 2-3 minutes until quite pink. Turn shrimp and cook  the other side till pink as well.

5. Stir everything together to blend flavors and heat everything through evenly.

6. Make sure the shrimp are done. Taste for seasoning. You will  probably need more salt. Scatter remaining herbs over the top and serve right away while hot. 

NOTE: Corn is best (sweetest) if cooked as soon as you get it. This recipe works well if you blanch the corn in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes, and let it cool Refrigerate for up to 2 days. Cut off the cob when ready to use and continue with recipe.

July 2022 - Crying Tiger Salmon with Chili Dipping Sauce

CRYING TIGER SALMON

with Chili Dipping Sauce

About the Recipe

This dish is way up there on my list of favorite salmon preparations. I think it's a tie with Whiskey Salmon as  for me - full disclosure - gravlax, smoked salmon and salmon tartare are in a different category.

In any case, Crying Tiger Salmon is divine. Even cold, right out of the fridge, the leftovers are perfection.

I adapted a Crying Tiger Steak recipe, a must-make suggestion from a friend. Having tweaked the spice and herb amounts and changed the cooking method, it's even better.  If you prefer steak to salmon or want a change of pace, choose thick sirloin or rib eye and marinate for 24 hours in the fridge. Then grill or broil to your preferred doneness. Slice and serve on a platter topped with the sauce and lots of fresh herbs.

If you choose salmon, it will probably  be the most tender and succulent ever. The sauce is spicy but I've adjusted it to not be mouth-searing. But obviously you can spice it up or down. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

A great starter for this salmon is Asian Avocado and Cucumber Salad (see the June 2022 recipe). For side dishes, I usually serve sesame noodles (see May 2022 recipe) and Asian Slaw or a cabbage stir-fry. Dessert is almost always Key Lime or Lemon Meringue Pie, or just berries and mixed sorbets, if I'm feeling lazy.

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CRYING TIGER STEAK SALMON WITH CHILI DIPPING SAUCE

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

For the Salmon:

•  2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce

• 1 tablespoon palm or light brown sugar

• 1 ½-2 pounds salmon filet, in one piece or cut into portions

For the Sauce:

•  3 tablespoons fish sauce

• 3 tablespoons lime juice

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro 

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped scallions

• 2 teaspoons dried red pepper powder

• 1 teaspoon palm or light brown sugar

• Lots of chopped scallions and/or cilantro to garnish

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Method

1. To make the salmon: Whisk together dark soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, and oil in a small bowl. Place fish in a large resealable plastic bag and pour in marinade. Seal bag, removing as much air as possible, and place in refrigerator and let marinate 4 hours to overnight.

2. To make the sauce: Whisk together fish sauce, lime juice, cilantro, shallots, scallions, pepper powder, and sugar. Set aside.

3. Line a large sheet pan with foil or parchment and place on an upper rack in the oven. Preheat oven to 500F.  When oven is ready and pan very hot, transfer salmon –skin side down to pan. It will sizzle. Cook 10 minutes or until done to your liking.

4. Transfer to a serving platter and serve immediately with sauce. Garnish with chopped scallions and cilantro

June 2022 - Chinese Avocado and Cucumber Salad

CHINESE AVOCADO & CUCUMBER SALAD

About the Recipe

This salad is GREAT. Even the rare person who doesn't adore avocados usually finishes every last bit. There is something about the fresh crunch of cucumbers against the richness of avocados and a very flavorful sauce that is way, way better than the sum of the simple parts. Because it is so special, I serve it as a starter, preferably (though not necessarily) followed by an Asian meal. However, it's also a great side dish--especially with Asian marinated fish or steak and a simple starch.

I can't remember where I got this recipe. I've changed it a lot from the original but still apologies for not giving credit where due.

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CHINESE AVOCADO & CUCUMBER SALAD

Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 2 large clove garlic, minced

• 4 tsp black Chinese vinegar or rice vinegar

• 4 tsp soy sauce

• 2 tsp toasted sesame oil

• a few drops of any red hot sauce

• 2 large hard-ripe avocados, pittled and sliced--to prevent browning, do not so this in advance 

• 1 organic English cucumber, sliced or 6 organic Persian cucumbers, skin on and sliced about 1/8 inch thick

• 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced into paper thin half rings

• 1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped

• 1/3 cup scallions (white and green parts) cut into thin rounds

• about 3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

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Method

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, and hot sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning and add pinches of salt if needed.

2. Toss the cucumbers, red onion, scallions, half the sesame seeds and cilantro in a bowl with the dressing.

3. Gently fold in the avocado . Top with the remaining sesame seeds. Serve right away. either on a platter or plated.

   Note: You can make extra if desired. This dressing keeps in the fridge for many months.

May 2022 - Sesame Noodles

SESAME NOODLES

About the Recipe

This recipe is wildly simple, easy, basic and even make-ahead if you want it to be.

I'm only sharing it here because people ask me for this recipe all the time.

The noodles are a great accompaniment to almost all Asian meals all year long,  but fit particularly well into a summer al fresco picnic alongside grilled chicken, fish, steak or shrimp. Add an interesting Asian fruit salad or spicy greens, cucumbers and avocado  tossed with a soy sauce vinaigrette and you've got lunch or a simple supper. 

Fruit sorbet and fresh berries provide an easy, colorful and refreshing dessert. With summer around the corner, this is all super seasonal and super easy.

I love using al dente whole wheat spaghettini or angel hair pasta for this recipe. The taste and the health benefits of whole wheat are  great and I like the heft of a gluten pasta here. However, feel free to be more traditional and use an Asian rice noodle.

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SESAME NOODLES

Sauce for about a pound of noodles serving 6-8 as a side dish

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup soy sauce

• 4 cloves, garlic, minced

• 2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

• 1 tablespoon sambal oelek (ground fresh chile paste), or more, to taste* or substitute hot sauce or chili paste or garlic chili paste

• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce

• 2 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

•  2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup chopped scallions

• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro

• 1 pound whole wheat spaghettini, cooked al dente and well drained

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Method

1. Puree first 7 ingredients in a food processor or blender.

   Then add salt and pepper to taste. And adjust other ingredients if needed.

2. Stir in scallions and cilantro.  Toss with noodles. Serve hot, warm or room temperature

   Note: This recipe can be prepared several hours in advance and set aside at room temperature. For longer storage,  cover and refrigerate. Be sure to bring to room temperature or heat before serving.

April 2022 - Salmon Tartare

SALMON TARTARE

with Tarragon, Cumin, Browned Butter and Pistachios

About the Recipe

This Salmon Tartare is a rough adaptation of an Ottolenghi version using trout. I prefer hearty salmon  rather than the more subtle trout with the strong flavors of cumin, tarragon and nuts--especially as I add extra of all three.

When I had no stove this past winter (I still have no gas but in late December I broke down and purchased an induction range which--much to my surprise--I'm adoring) I made this almost-no-cook (I DID have a hot plate) dish as a main course as well as a first course. It's a particularly well- received main course in summer alongside a corn and tomato salad and polenta. But I digress...

Do try this great salmon dish. It is my favorite tartare ever. Turn leftovers into salmon patties. They make GREAT salmon burgers. If you aren't going to use them right away, the patties freeze perfectly.

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Salmon Tartare with Tarragon, Cumin, Browned Butter and Pistachios

Serves 6 as first course

Ingredients:

• 2 very large shallots or 1 medium red onion, sliced paper thin

• finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 pounds very fresh skinless salmon filet, cut into 1/2" pieces

• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 3 teaspoons whole cumin seeds (toasted and cooled if possible)

• 1/4 cup slivered pistachios or more to taste, lightly toasted

• 1/3 cup fresh tarragon leaves, finely chopped

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Method

1. Place shallot or onion  in a small bowl with 3 tablespoons of lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper.  Massage with your fingers & set aside. 

2. Put the salmopn into a separate bowl with oil, lemon zest, 1 tablespoons of lemon juice, 2 teaspoons sea salt and pepper to taste.  Stir and set aside for 30 mins - not longer, or the fish will overcook (from the acidic lemon juice).

3. Before serving, put the butter and cumin seeds into a small pan and place over medium heat. Melt the butter gently for about 5 mins, swirling the pan from time to time, until the butter begins to foam, turn brown, smell nutty and is caramelized.

4. Strain the shallots (discarding the liquid) and toss with the  the fish, pistachios, and tarragon. Adjust salt and pepper.

5. Divide among 6 plates or spread out on a platter and drizzle with the cumin seed-browned butter.  Serve immediately. 

March 2022 - Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Walnuts and Gruyere

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER SALAD

with Walnuts and Gruyere

About the Recipe

I love all roasted vegetables and roasted cauliflower best of all.  I've made this salad for years and find that even cauliflower-haters often love it as well. The complexity of flavors and textures provides a sumptuous first course and also a great side dish. Serve it with simple grilled or roasted meat or fish. Pairing it with anything elaborate confuses the palate. 

Also, it's best at room temperature. It doesn't quite work eaten cold. 

Another suggestion: if possible make the dressing at least 1 hour ahead to allow the flavors to fully combine. And do make extra. The vinaigrette keeps for months in the fridge and is divine on green salads, steamed green beans or broccoli. 

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ROASTED CAULIFLOWER SALAD WITH WALNUTS AND GRUYERE

Serves 8 as an appetizer or side dish

Ingredients - Salad:

• 1 large head cauliflower, broken into large florets, tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper and roasted until done in a 400 oven. Then cooled and cut into little florets

• 3 bunches watercress, trimmed and coarsely chopped or 5 ounces baby arugula

• 2/3 cups coarsely shredded or coarsely grated gruyere cheese

• 1/3 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

• 1 large shallot or small red onion, chopped or cut into thin half rings

• 1 large red endive (Treviso), sliced crosswise, 1/4-inch thick or substitute radicchio

Ingredients - Dressing:

• 2-3 tablespoons red wine vinegar (or sherry vinegar)

• 1 clove chopped garlic

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

• 2 tablespoons walnut oil

• dash of balsamic

• salt and pepper to taste

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Method

1. Toss all ingredients with enough vinaigrette to moisten and flavor. Correct, salt, pepper, and vinegar if necessary.

   NOTE: If possible make the dressing at least 1 hour ahead to allow the flavors to fully combine. And do make extra. The vinaigrette keeps for months in the fridge and is divine on green salads, steamed green beans or broccoli. 

December 2021 - Tiny Chocolate Chip Cookies

TINY CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

About the Recipe

In my attempt to finish off the year with something easy, fun, and completely delicious that, in addition, doubles as a great Christmas gift and stocking stuffer, I present the recipe for TINY CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES. Completely adorable and completely fun and tiny, tiny, tiny, they are hard to resist, a bit like eating peanuts but more so.

Essentially this is normal chocolate chip cookie batter — though I do add extra salt and prefer a higher proportion of dark brown sugar than usual — but with four times the amount of chocolate chips. After all, isn't chocolate the main reason to eat chocolate chip cookies anyway? These mini treats are essentially nothing but chips held together with a minuscule bit of batter. Try them. Utterly divine. And because they are virtually all chocolate, get the highest quality chips you can find. I usually use Guittard. Happy Holidays!!

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TINY CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

Ingredients:

• 2 ¼ cups flour

• 1 teaspoon baking soda

• 1 ¼ teaspoon salt

• 2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

• ½ cup granulated white sugar

• 1 packed cup dark brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 2 large eggs at room temperature

• 8 cups (Four 12-ounce packages) chocolate chips

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Method

1. Sift flour, soda and salt together

2. Whip butter, both sugars and vanilla until light and creamy. Add eggs and continue to mix until light and fluffy.

3. Stir in and evenly distribute the chocolate chips.

4. Line cookie sheets with parchment and use two teaspoons or a spoon and a table knife or your fingers to make tiny, tiny cookies. They literally should not contain more than 1 or 2 chocolate chips. I've found this is easier to do if the dough is frozen or partially frozen. Place close together.

5. Bake until done, about 8 minutes. Should be dark golden. Don't under bake. 

6. Cool on racks.

   NOTE: Cooled cookies can be stored airtight for 2 or 3 weeks for frozen for many months. Just be sure to wrap well.

November 2021 - Curried Cream of Cauliflower and Apple Soup

CURRIED CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER AND APPLE SOUP

About the Recipe

This soup is amazing. Everyone asks for the recipe, goes home and makes it, and then reports back that they’re addicted. It’s loosely adapted from Daniel Boulud, but his version – though delicious – requires lots of heavy cream. My re-do is virtually fat free (but no one will ever guess). It’s rich, rich, rich in taste and sumptuousness while remaining super low in calories. I substitute raw Granny Smith’s for Boulud’s cooked apple garnish as their tang is an ideal counterpoint to the luscious “creaminess’ of the soup itself. 

An ideal way to kick off Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, this soup is festive and seasonal yet won’t break the bank calorie-wise before you even get to the main event.

Make a double or triple or even quadruple batch. It freezes beautifully. Add cooked shrimp, chicken, turkey or duck and you’ve got a Sunday supper main course on your hands. 

Highly recommended.

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CURRIED CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER AND APPLE SOUP

Serves 4-6

For the Soup:

• 6 cups good, strong chicken stock or more if needed

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 2 medium onions, chopped 

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 4 teaspoons West Indian curry powder 

• 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads or 2 pinches saffron powder 

• 4 apples, cored and cut into large dice

• 2 large heads cauliflower, greens and stem discarded, head broken up 

For the Garnish:

• 3-4 tablespoons minced chives 

• 1 organic Granny Smith apple (leave skin on) cut into small dice 

• 1-2 teaspoons crushed pink peppercorns (optional but beautiful and delicious)

• A drizzle of heavy cream or plain yogurt diluted with a bit of milk

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 

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Method

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. 

2. Add the onions, curry powder, and saffron and sweat for 2 minutes, stirring often.

3. Add the garlic and 4 large-diced apples and sweat for another 5 minutes, stirring often. 

4. Add the cauliflower and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Boil gently over medium heat until the cauliflower is very tender when pierced with a knife, approximately 20 minutes. 

5. Transfer the soup in batches to a blender and purée at high speed until very smooth. 

6. Add salt and pepper to taste. 

7. Keep warm until ready to serve or refrigerate when cool and reheat just before serving. 

8. Garnish with chives, apple dice and optionally with cream/yogurt and/or crushed pink peppercorns.

October 2021 - Individual Mixed Cheese & Garlic Soufflés

INDIVIDUAL MIXED CHEESE AND GARLIC SOUFFLÉS

About the Recipe

Along with Baked Alaska, Frozen Lemon-Meringue Bombe, and gravlax, this recipe for individual first course soufflés is one of my all-time faves. I’ve taught it over and over in my classes and people continue to request it again and again. 

Essentially, it’s a basic cheese soufflé recipe but when made individually, there is way more topping and crusty side bits per person. And of course having one’s own personal soufflé has a huge amount to be said for it.

More than that, however, are a couple of little tweaks that make a huge difference. Using Parmesan, in addition to Gruyere, provides more complexity and interest. I think it’s the addition of garlic to the roux that elevates the dish from “basic cheese soufflé” (already hard to beat) to something completely sublime. 

I also like to fill the molds almost to the top rather than ¾ full as most recipes suggest. This way, even if you aren’t an expert souffle maker quite yet, your creations should rise way over the edge of the molds. Definitely wow-worthy. 

Also, don’t let the thought of making your own souffles intimidate you. IT IS NOT HARD. Make the base up to three days ahead and refrigerate. You can also prepare the molds up to a day ahead.  Having done that (and brought the egg whites to room temperature), there is nothing left to do other than preheat the oven, whip up the whites, fold everything together, fill the molds and pop the souffles in the oven.

Because they are the first course (rather than a side dish or dessert), you’re home free. The timing issue is essentially moot. After the souffles have been in the oven for 10 minutes, get your guests to the table. Way better for them to wait for the souffles than for the souffles to wait for them, a recipe (no pun intended) for failure. On the other hand, if you follow my instructions, this recipe is for nothing other than complete success. Enjoy!!

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Individual Mixed Cheese & Garlic Soufflés

Ingredients

* All ingredients should be at room temperature

• Softened butter and grated Parmesan to prepare the molds

• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 3 cloves minced garlic

• 6 tablespoons flour

• 2 cups boiling milk

• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

• 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

• 6 eggs yolks 

• 10 egg whites

• 1/8 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon cream of tartar

• 6 ounces coarsely grated Gruyere or a combination of Gruyere and Parmesan cheeses

METHOD

1. Butter 8 individual soufflé molds or ramekins. Dust with Parmesan. Place them on a baking sheets.

2. To make the soufflé base, melt the butter in a large saucepan with the garlic. Cook, stirring for one minute. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, over moderate heat until the butter and flour foam together for two minutes without browning.

3. Off heat, pour in the boiling milk and beat vigorously with a wire whisk until well blended. Add the seasonings and return to the heat and boil, stirring, for one minute. Sauce should be very thick.

4. Add the yolks, beating each one in before adding the next. Correct seasoning. Seasoning should be strong as the flavor will be diluted when the whites are added.

   — BASE MAY BE MADE UP TO 2 DAYS AHEAD, COVERED AND REFRIGERATED. HEAT TO TEPID BEFORE CONTINUING WITH THE RECIPE —

5. To finish the soufflés: Preheat the oven to 400° F. Whip the room temperature egg whites with the 1/8 teaspoon salt and the cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Don’t let them get stiff. Stir ¼ of them into the tepid soufflé base and then stir in all but ¼ cup of the cheese. Then fold the lightened base into the remaining whites.

6. Divide the soufflé mixture among the 8 prepared molds. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the tops. Place the soufflés on the baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven. Immediately lower the heat to 375° F. Bake approximately 20 minutes until risen and set. Serve right away.

September 2021 - Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies

CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT COOKIES

with Gluten Free Variation

About the Recipe

This recipe provides the blueprint for my favorite chocolate cookie of all time, bar none. Possibly my favorite cookie of any type of all time. Combining the very best qualities of brownies, ganache, and flowerless chocolate cake, the results are unbelievable deliciousness.

The recipe makes 30-40 large cookies. A portion probably should be one, but most people end up eating two and sometimes three. They are irresistible.

The large recipe is actually a plus as the unbaked cookies keep almost forever in the freezer. And as they need to be baked frozen anyway, these cookies provide an ideal dessert solution when a dinner guest shows up last minute and out of nowhere. The cookies also solve the problem of a divine, home-baked dessert when on overload. Just make sure to cool the cookies completely before serving.

Freeze raw cookies today and enjoy them all fall!!!!

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Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies

Ingredients

MIX TOGETHER AND SET ASIDE

• 100 grams all-purpose or gluten free flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• ½ teaspoon salt

• 200 grams hazelnut flour, toasted

• 125 grams milk chocolate, chopped

• 155 grams skinned hazelnuts, toasted and halved or chopped

MEASURE OUT

• 250 grams unsalted butter

• 300 grams 72% chocolate semisweet chocolate

• 300 grams sugar

• 200 grams dark brown sugar

• 5 eggs at room temperature

• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

• Maldon salt for sprinkling before baking

METHOD

1. Melt butter and 72% chocolate in a double boiler. Set aside.

2. Whip eggs, sugar and vanilla in an electric mixer until tripled in size (ribbon stage)—about 5 minutes at medium-high speed.

3. Continue beating while adding the chocolate mixture in a slow stream. 

4. Add all other ingredients and combine well.

5. Chill in fridge until hard.

6. Use an ice cream scoop (small size measuring 2 tablespoons is best) to scoop ice cream scoop-shaped round balls. FREEZE these balls at least 6 hours. They must be HARD FROZEN. Or freeze and then wrap in foil. Some or all of the balls can be stored in the freezer for up to 6 months and used when needed.

7. Preheat oven to 375° F. Place on parchment-lined cookie sheets far apart (5 or 6 cookies per cookie sheet), sprinkle with Maldon salt and bake approximately 15-17 minutes — depending on the size of the scoop — until just set. You might want to bake one cookie as a test. Bake and let cool completely before tasting to see if 15-17 minutes was correct in your oven. Cookies should be chewy but not raw.

August 2021 - Fried Sage Leaf & Anchovie Paste "Sandwiches"

FRIED SAGE LEAF and ANCHOVIE PASTE '“SANDWICHES”

About the Recipe

I've been making these fabulous sage-centric cocktail nibbles for decades. Crispy and salty is an unbeatable combo. People LOVE them. And once you get the hang of it — batter thickness and oil temperature — these mini sandwiches are super simple to throw together. They can be assembled and the batter made in advance. When ready to serve, you can fry them up in literally 5 minutes. I suggest serving 3 or 4 sandwiches per person. 

Leftovers can be successfully re-crisped in a skillet over medium-high heat but the tiny treats are at their very best just made.

A final note: All of you gardeners probably have more sage at this point than you know what to do with. This recipe is a delicious solution. However, Farmers Market — or even supermarket — fresh sage is just fine. 

Enjoy.

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Fried Sage Leaf and Anchovie Paste "Sandwiches"

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup water mixed with 1/2 cup self-rising flour

• large fresh sage leaves — the larger the better

• anchovy paste

• tasteless vegetable oil

METHOD

1. Whisk together the batter and set aside. It should be the thickness of heavy cream. Thin a bit if necessary.

2. Match pairs of same size leaves

3. Run a line of anchovy paste down the center of one leaf of each pair of leaves

4. Make sage leaf sandwiches and set aside

5. Heat about 1/3 inch of oil in a large heavy skillet (large enough to hold all of the sandwiches if possible. Otherwise, fry in batches). 

6. Dip one sandwich at a time in the batter, letting the extra run off. Place carefully in the hot fat and cook over medium heat. Turn once the first side is golden and cook the other side.

7. When dark gold, transfer leaves to paper toweling.

8. Serve warm on a plate lined with a square of brown paper

   NOTE: Sandwiching the leaves is not necessary. They are also delicious fried singly with no anchovy paste. However, in that case, be sure to sprinkle them with sea salt or fleur de sel once fried OR add some salt to the batter.

   If you are not a fan of anchovy paste, another option is to stuff with a crumbling of feta, ricotta salata or chèvre instead.

July 2021 - Sweet & Spicy Lacquered Roast Chicken

SWEET AND SPICY LACQUERED ROAST CHICKEN

About the Recipe

The Fourth of July is here again and as usual I'm thinking SUMMER PICNIC. If you are of the same mind and ready  to move on from hotdogs and hamburgers or don't have a grill or access to a bonfire, try making this divine Chinese-lacquered roast chicken. Sweet, spicy, succulent, and GORGEOUS, it is equally delicious warm or at room temperature and is verifiably wow-worthy. Ideal sides include Asian cole slaw and sesame noodles or Asian rice salad, but good old American stand-bys are fine too. The chicken is subtly rather than aggressively Chinese and pairs well with almost anything.

A bowl of fresh cherries and a platter of Chinese almond cookies and/or fortune cookies are a fun dessert - but of course a Forth-of-July watermelon is easy and always welcome. As are chocolate chip cookies and brownies.

FYI, this chicken is not only for picnics. I've served it many times — summer and winter — warm and for dinner. Everyone loves it anywhere, any time.

Happy Fourth!!!!

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Sweet & Spicy Lacquered Roast Chicken

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

• 1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds)

• 3 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons THICK soy sauce (in a jar and paste-like. Buy at Kalustyan's or order online. Do not use regular soy as it is too thin and will not stay on the chicken)

• 2 teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns, ground in a spice grinder

• 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 

• 2 tablespoons kosher salt

• 8 cloves of peeled garlic, finely chopped 

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil

METHOD

1. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, set a rack inside it and place the chicken on the rack. Stir together the honey and dark soy sauce until the honey dissolves. Using a pastry brush or your hands, coat the chicken with an even layer of the mixture. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes to let the skin dry slightly, then brush again with all of the remaining mixture. 

2. Mix the two peppers together with the salt and pat all over the chicken. Use it all. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 12 hours and up to 2 days.

3. Two to three hours before you plan to roast the chicken, remove it from the refrigerator. Mix the minced garlic with the oil or process them together in a food processor. Gently smear all over the chicken. Use it all. 

4. Heat the oven to 400° F. Roast the chicken for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until the internal temperature at the thickest part of the breast and where the thigh meets the breast is 160°-165° F (If you don’t have a thermometer, roast it until the legs wiggle freely at their joints or snip the skin between the thigh and breast: If the liquid runs clear, it’s done). If during the roasting process the skin darkens too quickly, cover loosely with foil and continue roasting. Let rest for 15 minutes before carving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

June 2021 - Blueberry Streusel Coffee Cake

BLUEBERRY STREUSEL COFFEE CAKE

About the Recipe

Back to basics. This recipe is a simple variation on my sour cream coffee cake that incorporates mixture of walnuts or pecans, sugar and cinnamon as the filling. This version, bursting with the flavor of seasonal berries is both sweet and tart and absolutely great. I dare anyone not to love it. IF you don't like blueberries, replace them with raspberries or blackberries. Or in winter, even diced very ripe pear does the trick. 

This coffee cake, warm or at room temperature, is ideal at breakfast or brunch. However, no one has ever complained when I've served it for dessert. A la mode is great with vanilla or berry ice cream. And to really gild the lily, bake extra streusel (sprinkled on a baking sheet) until golden. Cool and use to garnish the ice cream (with or without the cake)!!!  Cooked streusel will keep for several days in an airtight container or freeze--well-wrapped-- for longer storage. Rich and crunchy streusel is surprisingly useful to have on hand to garnish custards, ice creams, oatmeal, certain baked goods, or (I hate to admit it) just to eat by the handful.

In any case, this month, with local blueberries at their peak, do try this recipe. Sometimes basic and traditional can't be improved upon.

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Blueberry Streusel Coffee Cake

Ingredients

* All ingredients should be at room temperature

FOR THE CAKE:

• ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter 

• 1 ½ cups sugar

• 3 eggs 

• 1 cup sour cream

• 1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract

• ½ teaspoon almond extract (optional) 

• 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder

• ½ teaspoon baking soda

• ½ teaspoon salt 

• 2 ½ cups CAKE flour (if you don’t have CAKE FLOUR, use white all-purpose flour but replace 2 tablespoons of it with CORNSTARCH)

FOR THE FILLING:

• 3-4 cups blueberries (I like LOTS but you may prefer fewer)

• 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

• ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

• pinch of fine sea salt

FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:

• ¼ cup flour

• ¼ cup sugar

• Large pinch fine sea salt

• 4 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 4 pieces

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and flour a 10-inch springform pan

2. Make the streusel topping - pulse the flour, sugar, salt, and butter in the food processor until the butter is broken down into irregular lumps about the size of large peas. Set aside.

3. Cream the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time and beat well--scraping down the sides of the bowl often--for about 5 more minutes.

4. Add the vanilla and then the sour cream. Beat well, at least 5 minutes more. Batter may separate a bit. Ignore that.

5. Meanwhile, sift the 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder, ½ teaspoon baking soda, ½ teaspoon salt and 2 ½ cups flour together and add to the batter. Mix just until combined. GENTLY fold in the blueberry mixture.

6. Pour the batter into the pan and smooth top.  Sprinkle evenly with the streusel.

7. Bake until done, approximately 45-60 minutes. Test with toothpick or skewer after 40 minutes but will probably take closer to an hour. Cool.

   NOTE: This same batter and procedure makes great muffins. For muffins just bake 15-20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean.

May 2021 - Spanakopita

SPANAKOPITA

Greek Mixed Greens Pie

About the Recipe

If, like me, your favorite passed hors d'oeuvres has always been those little golden, crispy, crackly Greek spinach and phyllo triangles (mini spanakopitas) you will absolutely adore a whole huge dinner portion of it. This recipe is easy and relatively foolproof. 

Traditionally a spanakopita is all spinach,  I find it infinitely tastier when spinach is just one in a whole plethora of greens. Use several if you can. And be sure to add lots of fresh herbs. You can adjust the proportions as you see fit (I sometimes use fewer greens and extra herbs). Whatever you do will be fabulous. Just be sure to adjust salt and pepper before baking. You don't want to undersalt.

The entire spanakopita can be put together, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours in advance. Do remove it from the refrigerator 2-4 hours before baking. 

I highly suggest you try this recipe. Working with phyllo is way easier than you'd think. Really fun and, once you get the hang of it, there are so many delicious things to make. I always try to keep a package of frozen phyllo in the freezer. Just remember that if the sheets break, it doesn't really matter. Just proceed with the recipe, patching them together as best you can. No one will know. The finished dish will still look fluffy, golden and magical.

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Spanakopita - Greek Mixed Greens Pie

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 3/4 pound very roughly chopped mixed greens and tender stems. Any combination of  spinach, watercress, collard greens, arugula, and/or Swiss chard works well.

• 1/4 pound mixed tender herbs and tender stems, such as parsley, chives, dill and/or chervil

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling

• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

• 1 scant teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1 large pinch red pepper flakes

• 8 sliced scallions, both white and green parts 

• 5 cloves garlic, quartered 

• 2/3 cup couscous (any size) or quinoa 

• 1 large egg, well beaten

• 1/4 pound feta, crumbled

• 7 sheets phyllo dough, thawed according to directions on package

METHOD

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position. Preheat oven to 400°F.  Generously brush a 9 or 10-inch pie plate or gratin dish  generously with olive oil and set on a rimmed baking sheet. You can also use a similarly sized square or rectangular baking dish.

2. For the Filling: In a large bowl, combine chopped greens, chopped herbs, salt,  pepper and red pepper flakes. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Set aside.

3. In a large Dutch oven or casserole set over medium heat, add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, scallions, and garlic and cook until wilted and beginning to brown, about 5-10 minutes. Add mixed greens  to the pan and toss over heat until the vegetables are just wilted. Don't overcook. Add the couscous or quinoa and egg and thoroughly combine. Once everything is well mixed, fold in the crumbled feta. Adjust salt and pepper.

4. To Assemble the Pie: unroll thawed phyllo and keep it covered with a moist kitchen towel while working. Working with 1 sheet at a time, lay phyllo so that it is centered in the pie pan with the excess draping over the rim and brush generously with about 2 teaspoons olive oil. Working quickly, repeat with 4 more sheets of phyllo, each sheet placed perpendicular to the previous one, brushing with olive oil before adding the next. Don't worry if the phyllo breaks a bit. Do the best you can. It won't make any difference in the finished dish.

5. Add greens mixture to phyllo-lined pie. Fold excess phyllo over greens and--loosely and decoratively if possible-- drape remaining 2 sheets of phyllo over the top. Drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons more olive oil. Slice into portions using a serrated knife. Only slice about a third of the way down. Don't cut through the bottom crust. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Allow to cool at least 15 minutes before serving.  You can also serve it at room temperature. Warm weather is here and a spanakopita makes great picnic food.

April 2021 - Sea Bass en Papillote

SEA BASS EN PAPILLOTE

About the Recipe

I only liked my fish grilled, pan-seared or baked until this recipe instigated an about face. En papillote is now my current go-to fish preparation and this sea bass is top of the list. In French En papilotte means "in paper" and in culinary speak it means steaming food in a paper wrapper--in general along with veggies and flavorful aromatics. Kitchen parchment is usually used but aluminum foil also works.

This particular recipe pairs well with brown jasmine rice which brilliantly sops up the fragrant juices that issue forth when the packet is unwrapped.

Feel free to experiment. You can add garlic, soy, a few drops of dark sesame oil, lemongrass, chili paste and/or whatever strikes your fancy.

I've also included an Italianesque variation just to show you how the recipe can be modified to suit your taste and what you happen to have in the fridge. It is delicious too.

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Sea Bass en Papillote

Serves 4 (though recipe can be scaled up or down)

Ingredients

MIX TOGETHER:

• 1/2 cup mild olive oil

• juice and finely grated zest from 1 organic lemon or lime

• 1/4 cup dry white wine

• large pinch red pepper flakes

• grated ginger micro plane--1 tablespoon grated fresn ginger--or more to taste

• salt and pepper as needed

• 4 medium carrots peeled and shaved (use a vegetable peeler for the shaving)

• 1 large leek--white part only--well washed and cut crosswise as thinly as possible (6 thinly sliced scallions can be substituted)

• 1 small fennel, sliced as thinly as possible 

• 4 sea bass filets with skin---7 or 8 ounces each, well seasoned with salt and pepper 

METHOD

- Use parchment or foil sheets approximately 12"x16"

1. Preheat oven to 375F.  Fold parchment sheets or foil pieces in half, place 1/4 of the veggie mix on one side of the fold. Place a filet on top. Double fold the edges. Seal with paper clips or staples (not necessary if using foil). Place on a baking sheet.

2. Bake for 18 minutes (if in doubt an instant read thermometer should read 135F-140F

3. BE SURE TO REMOVE STAPLES OR PAPERCLIPS  BEFORE SERVING. Place one package on each of 4 plates and serve right away. Packages are opened at table by each diner.

   NOTE: The packages can be made earlier in the day and refrigerated until ready to bake.

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Italian Variation

Serves 4

Ingredients

MIX TOGETHER:

• 1/4 cup sliced sundried tomatoes 

• 2 tablespoons oil from the tomatoes

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• Zest of 1 lemon plus juice of half the lemon

• 1 small fennel, thinly sliced

• 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• 1 large shallot, thinly sliced

• Large pinches of hot pepper flakes, dried thyme, rosemary, celery seed

• Salt and pepper as needed

• 4 sea bass filets with skin---7 or 8 ounces each, well seasoned with salt and pepper

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 375F.  Fold parchment sheets or foil pieces in half, place 1/4 of the veggie mix on one side of the fold. Place a filet on top. Double fold the edges. Seal with paper clips or staples (not necessary if using foil). Place on a baking sheet.

2. Bake for 18 minutes (if in doubt an instant read thermometer should read 135F-140F

3. BE SURE TO REMOVE STAPLES OR PAPERCLIPS  BEFORE SERVING. Place one package on each of 4 plates and serve right away. Packages are opened at table by each diner.

   NOTE: The packages can be made earlier in the day and refrigerated until ready to bake.

March 2021 - Homemade Potato Gnocchi

HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI

with Brown Butter and Sage

About the Recipe

I’ve always adored gnocchi but have never made them successfully until now. I’ve adapted a Thomas Keller recipe and am jubilant. The proportions are his, more or less, but making them in an electric mixer—my idea-- makes the whole process infinitely easier, more do-able. 

The only hitch is you CANNOT OVER MIX or the gnocchi will become gummy. A few seconds, then scraping down and then a few seconds more does it nicely. An added bonus: once boiled and cooled, gnocchi freeze perfectly. I enjoy the security blanket factor of having a double or triple batch on hand in the freezer. Just be sure to defrost before using in a recipe. 

Once you have the gnocchi, the brown butter-sage sauce comes together in just a few minutes. This sauce and gnocchi marry perfectly, but the little dumplings are wildly versatile and pair brilliantly with all sorts of sauces. Use your favorite tomato sauce, creamy mushroom sauce, pesto or gorgonzola sauce or just a simple mix of olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, crushed black pepper, and Parmesan.  

If you want super caramelized gnocchi, try tossing with olive oil and melted butter and baking on a sheet pan about 25 minutes in a 425F oven. At that point, toss with a sauce or with roasted veggies of choice.  I like a NY Times recipe that includes roasted asparagus, leeks, sliced shallots and sliced whole lemon. Toss the roasted veggies with the caramelized gnocchi , thawed frozen peas and garnish with fresh chives and Parmesan.  Roasted cabbage or broccoli florets, butternut squash, whole garlic, and shallot or red onion is another great combo. Again, enhance with fresh herbs and Parmesan. 

In any case, these gnocchi are a winner and super easy once you get the hang of them. Let me know if you have questions.

Vis a vis gnocchi boards. They are useful but not necessary. If you don’t have one and don’t want to buy one (you can find them online for about $10), just shape the gnocchi with your hands and use a fork to make some ridges. The ridges help hold the sauce but are not necessary.

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Homemade Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter and Sage

Serves 4 -6 as a first course

Ingredients

FOR THE BASIC GNOCCHI:

• 3 medium Russet potatoes, approximately 11 ounces each

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 3/4 to 1 generous cup all-purpose flour plus more for sprinkling while rolling if needed

• 3 egg yolks from extra-large or jumbo eggs

METHOD

1.  Preheat oven to 400F. Prick each potato in several places with a fork and place on a baking sheet. Bake until tender when stuck with a knife or pressed with your finger. Do not underbake.

2. Cut hot potatoes in half.

3. Scoop the potato flesh out of its skin while still hot and push through a potato ricer into the bowl of an electric mixer. Make a well in the potatoes and sprinkle with 6 tablespoons flour. Top with the yolks, and the salt, and sprinkle with a second 6 tablespoons flour.  Mix on low speed for 5 seconds. Scrape down the bowl and mix for 5-10 seconds more, adding up to 6 tablespoons of flour if the dough is too wet. The finished ball of dough should be soft to the touch and hold the imprint of your finger. Don't overmix or the gnocchi will be gummy. Divide the dough into 4 pieces.

4. Gently roll and stretch each piece of dough into a rope 1/2 to 5/8 inch in diameter. Sprinkle lightly with flour if too sticky.  Cut each rope into 1-inch lengths and then roll each piece into a ball. Gently roll each ball onto a gnocchi paddle to form oval gnocchi with ridges, letting each piece fall from the paddle onto a plate or sheet pan. 

5. Meanwhile, prepare and ice bath and set aside.

6. Bring a very large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add half the gnocchi all at once. Give a good stir so that the gnocchi don't clump, lower the heat to medium and cook.

7. As with all dumplings, gnocchi will float to the top when done. When all the gnocchi have risen to the surface, cook for 30 seconds more and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the  finished gnocchi to the ice bath then drain on a paper towel–lined sheet pan.

8. Repeat with remaining gnocchi. 

9. Cooked gnocchi can be used right away or cooled and frozen.

   NOTE: If not using right away--in the sage and brown butter recipe or in a recipe of your choice: transfer gnocchi to a parchment-lined sheet pan. You can serve them right away, refrigerate and use within two days, or freeze and store in an airtight freezer bag for future use. If frozen or refrigerated, bring to room temperature before using.

FOR THE FINISHED SAGE & BROWN BUTTER DISH:

• 1 recipe cooked potato gnocchi at room temperature 

• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes or more to taste

• 18 large fresh sage leaves

• 1/2 -1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest finely grated lemon zest 

• 1/2 cup shaved and/or coarsely grated parmesan cheese

METHOD

1.  Melt the butter in a large skillet over high heat. Cook, stirring, until the butter develops brown flecks and smells nutty. Watch it closely to keep the butter solids from burning. 

2. Add the gnocchi, pepper flakes, sage leaves, 1-3 tablespoons of water as needed and salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon zest. Toss until some of the brown-butter flecks stick to the gnocchi, a minute or so.

3. Remove from heat and toss in half the cheese. Taste for salt and pepper.

4. Divide into bowls and top with remaining cheese. Serve right away.

February 2021 - Pear Fondant Cake

PEAR FONDANT CAKE

About the Recipe

I'm a huge fan of everything pear. Savory pear preparations can be exceptional. They are great in salads and cooked alongside duck and pork. But I particularly love the dessert options. In the cooler months, I make poached pears, caramelized pears, pear crumbles, pear galettes, pear and ginger crostatas, and pear tarts. And a perfectly ripe pear all by itself is nothing to sneeze at. 

However, possibly my favorite pear dessert of all--and one of the easiest--is a classic Pear Fondant Cake. It's somewhat of a cross between a cake and a custard--but with a crispy, crackly sugar topping-- and luscious. I've been known to eat an entire cake, one tiny sliver after another. For me, it's the most addictive dessert ever. And somehow quite a treat for breakfast as well. Maybe because of the fruit? Or more likely, the fruit is the excuse.

In any case, I've made this recipe for years...for so many years that I have no idea where I found the original recipe. It is common comfort food, cuisine de grandmere, in France, but not so well known here. It is EASY, EASY, EASY. And now, when pears are still at their best, I HIGHLY suggest giving it a try.

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Pear Fondant Cake

Serves 8

Ingredients

FOR THE BOTTOM LAYER:

• 3 large ripe pears (peeled or not. I don’t peel them)  quartered vertically and then each quarter cut into 4 vertical slices

• 3 large eggs at room temperature

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 6 tablespoons unflavored vegetable oil such as safflower, canola, or peanut

• 1 tablespoon dark rum

• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 6 tablespoons flour

• pinch of salt

FOR THE TOP LAYER:

• 2 large eggs, room temperature

• 3/4 cup sugar 

• Pinch of salt

• 5 tablespoons (2 1/2 ounces) softened unsalted butter

• confectioners sugar to garnish

METHOD

1.  Preheat the oven to 425 and heavily butter and sugar a 9- inch springform pan

2. Prepare the first batter: Whisk together 3 eggs, ½ cup sugar, a pinch of salt, the oil, the rum, and the vanilla. Beat well  until a quite fluffy. I prefer to do this in an electric mixer.

3. Add the flour. Mix on low speed until just combined and set aside to rest.

4. Lay the pear slices in the prepared pan in circles starting at the outside and working toward the center. Be sure to cover the entire bottom of the pan even if you have to cut some of the pieces smaller

5. Pour the first batter over the pears and spread evenly. Bake in the center of the preheated oven until the batter is just set and beginning to bubble, about 20 minutes

6. While the  cake is  in the oven, prepare the second batter: In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the softened butter with the 3/4 cups sugar and pinch of salt until well blended.Add the 2 remaining eggs, one at a time, and beat until the batter is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes.

7. Reduce the oven temperature to 350.  Remove the pan from the oven and pour the second batter over the first. Bake another 30-40 minutes until the cake is firm and the top is golden. Don’t underbake.

8. Cool on a rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.  Dust with powdered sugar before serving if desired.

January 2021 - Shanghai Beef Short Ribs

SHANGHAI BEEF SHORT RIBS

with Chilies & Soy

About the Recipe

Old is once again new and scrumptious, falling-off-the-bone beef short ribs are experiencing a well-deserved revival.  Call me old-fashioned, but I adore this hearty, stick-to-your-ribs dish, especially in cooler weather. This particular recipe--exotically redolent of ginger, lemongrass, and soy-- provides a titillating, comfort food pick-me-up to combat January doldrums.

Beef short ribs are characterized by drop-dead scrumptiousness and an irresistibly easy "brown, braise, defat"  preparation. Long, slow cooking tenderizes the sinewy meat while fat melts away like magic.   Ask your butcher for his largest, leanest, and meatiest ribs.  Best of all, only the initial browning requires serious attention.  The ribs then cook themselves. While simmering gently stovetop or in the oven, both the beef and its sauce-to-be absorb the essential spices and aromatics from the braising liquid which in turn is infused with the flavor released by the bones. These simultaneous processes produce a distinctly beefy richness resonating with complex layers of added flavor.

Once a defining cut-with-a-spoon doneness is achieved, defatting is child’s play. After cooling, refrigerate the ribs and their liquid for a few hours or better still, overnight or for up to a week. The fat will rise and congeal on top and can easily be removed with a spatula, an easier and more thorough method than labor-intensive simmering-and-skimming.  As flavors mellow and coalesce over time, cooking these recipes in advance provides extra deliciousness and less grease. To serve, bring to room temperature and reheat (covered) in a 350-degree oven for about 25 minutes. The prepare-ahead nature of this winter crowd pleaser is a host’s dream-come-true. 

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Shanghai Beef Short Ribs with Chilies and Soy

Ingredients

Serves 10-12

RIBS:

• 5 tablespoons safflower oil

• 10 beef short ribs, 14 to 16 ounces each (ask for center- cut), trimmed of excess fat and cut in half (by the butcher) crosswise.

• 10 ounces fresh ginger (about 5 inches), thinly sliced

• 6 garlic cloves, sliced

• 1/2 cup finely chopped lemongrass

• 2 dried Thai chilies

• 1 1/3 cups soy sauce

• 10 cups water

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt

GLAZE:

• 1 cup hoisin sauce

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• 1/2 cup soy sauce

• 1/2 cup honey

• 1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder

• 2 dried Thai chilies

• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

• 4 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

• 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, Thai basil and/or chives for garnish

• Cucumber-Radish Remoulade (optional)

CUCUMBER-RADISH REMOULADE (optional addition)

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

• 4 teaspoons wasabi paste

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 pounds cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cut into 1 1/2 x 1/4-inch sticks

• 1 pound red radishes, trimmed and very thinly sliced

• 1/2 cup finely minced chives

METHOD

RIBS:

1.  Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

2. Add ribs, working in batches if necessary, and cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

3. Transfer ribs to a plate, leaving drippings in pot.

4. Reduce heat to medium, and add ginger, garlic, lemongrass, and chili. Cook until golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add soy sauce, water, sugar, salt, and ribs. Cover, and gently simmer until ribs are tender, about 1 hour.

GLAZE:

1. Combine hoisin, garlic, tamari or soy sauce, honey, five-spice powder, chili, orange zest, and vinegar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Preheat broiler. Remove ribs from liquid, and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.

3. Brush glaze all over ribs, and broil until glaze starts to bubble, about 3 minutes per side.

4. Transfer to a serving platter, and brush with more glaze before serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro if desired.

Pass the Remoulade separately if using. Another great accompaniment is homemade mayonnaise flavored with garlic and lots of wasabi paste.

CUCUMBER-RADISH REMOULADE (optional addition)

1. Combine the mayonnaise, mustard, wasabi paste and salt and pepper to taste in a large mixing bowl.

2. Fold in the cucumbers, radishes and half the chives. Adjust seasonings and strew the remaining chives over the top. Serve right away.

December 2020 - Potatoes Anna

POTATOES ANNA

About the Recipe

Potatoes Anna is unique and spectacularly scrumptious, a sublime potato cake--its golden, potato-chip-like exterior encasing a meltingly tender, supremely buttery interior. Dating back to Napoleon III's Second Empire Paris, it was created by famed chef Adolphe Dugléré at Cafe Anglaise to honor a favorite customer, Anna Deslions, a 19thcentury beauty--arguably Zola’s model for Nana--  said to have serviced 3 kings, l2 emperors, l8 princes, 34 dukes, 2 princesses and several actresses in the Café’s infamous upstairs private dining room. 

My personal--and less exotic-- fascination with pommes Anna also began in Paris, at Brasserie Bofinger when I was 19. Having trouble believing the waiter's explanation that the miraculous galette was nothing but thinly sliced potatoes, butter, salt and pepper cooked briefly on the stove top and finished off in a hot oven, I suspected the magic must rest in a secret French trick, ingredient or impossible-to-manage-at-home technique. 

I was wrong. Though this elegant showstopper holds its own on even the most lavish occasion, it’s quick and easy. Use a heavy skillet and the best butter you can find, and the heavenly concoction is hard to mess up. But don’t undercook; without its characteristic golden shell, the dish remains humble spuds rather than food for the gods.  

And no matter what anyone tells you, don’t rinse the raw potato slices. Their starch provides the necessary glue that prevents the cake from falling apart when unmolded. In a pinch, Potatoes Anna can be completed up to 6 hours in advance, cooled completely, covered loosely with foil, and reheated for 15-20 minutes in a 350-degree oven when ready to serve.

The adventurous can sprinkle chives, grated cheese, sautéed onions, or even chopped black truffles between the layers before baking. Hard to go wrong.

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Potatoes Anna

Ingredients

Makes one 9-10-inch potato cake to serve 6 as a side dish

• 2 pounds Yukon Gold or Russet potatoes, washed but not peeled (you can peel if you feel you must but it’s extra work and unnecessary)

• 1 tablespoons olive oil 

• 7 tablespoons unsalted butter (the best and freshest you can get your hands on)

• Fine sea salt 

• Freshly ground black pepper 

• 2 tablespoons chopped chives or parsley (optional)

METHOD

1.  Slice potatoes approximately 1/16-inch thick.

2. Preheat oven to 425 with rack in the lowest position. Over medium-low heat, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter plus the olive oil in a 9-10 inch well-seasoned cast iron skillet, heavy nonstick skillet or omelette pan with an ovenproof handle. When butter is melted and beginning to foam, remove from heat and swirl to coat sides of pan

3. Place pan back over low heat. In the middle of the skillet, set one potato slice. Using the best-looking potato slices, overlap them in a circle around the center (this will be the top layer). Continue with overlapping layers of potatoes--seasoning with salt and pepper and pushing down to compact the potatoes as you go -- until potatoes are used up. Fit any extra potato slices or pieces into any holes that are left between slices. Remember that only the bottom layer and sides of the potato cake will show once inverted.

4. Dot potatoes with remaining butter and cover with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Use your hands to press down hard on the potatoes to compact them as much as possible. 

5. Place a lid over the parchment paper, put pan on a baking sheet, and place on the lowest rack of the oven. Bake covered for 20 minutes. 

6. After 25 minutes, remove lid and press down, with a small plate or large spatula, to compact the potatoes as much as possible.

7. Bake 30 minutes more and then check for doneness. Bake 10-15 minutes more if necessary. When done, potatoes will be very tender when cut into with a small knife and will be golden brown and crispy underneath and around the edges. If the potatoes need a bit of extra browning, place the pan on the oven floor or back on the burner for the last 5 minutes of cooking, but be careful they don’t burn.

8. When done, remove from oven or heat and let stand undisturbed for 10 minutes. Run a small knife around the inside of the pan. Press a plate against the potatoes and tilt the pan over a bowl to get rid of excess butter. Place an inverted platter over the skillet, invert the skillet and platter together, and lift off the skillet. If some of the potatoes have stuck, use a spatula to lift them out and push them back into place. Cut into 6 wedges. Serve immediately.  Sprinkle with fresh parsley or chives if desired.

November 2020 - Gravlax

GRAVLAX

About the Recipe

My love of all things salmon began in early childhood. In Beverly Hills where I grew up, Sunday mornings meant trekking off to Nate ‘n Al’s and stuffing myself with enough lox, bagels, and cream cheese to last until dinner and beyond. 

The deli’s lox —  salted, lightly cold-smoked Nova Scotia salmon---was scrumptious. As time passed, however, I encountered the usually-less-salty Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian smoked salmons and liked them even better; but their cost relegated them to the “special occasion food” category.

And then, voila---at a Stockholm restaurant in the early ‘nineties--gravlax, a palate-pleasing revelation. I never looked back. The thinly sliced, rosily orange fish looked like smoked salmon, but its meltingly tender texture and cleaner taste were new.  I learned that preparing this delicacy was smoke-free child’s play: refrigerating  very fresh salmon fillet for a couple of days after smothering it in salt, sugar and abundant fresh dill, something even a kitchen novice can manage at home in ten minutes or less and inexpensively to boot. 

My guests marvel nonstop and devour it enthusiastically whether it’s served as an hors d'oeuvre, elegant starter, sandwich filling, brunch fare, or light main course. Toasts and a sweet mustard-dill sauce are the traditional accompaniments. Though I sometimes present the exquisite filet as a one-man show, offering it with nothing but cracked pepper, chopped dill and a drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice or champagne vinegar.

Its versatility makes gravlax ideal for the upcoming holiday season. One recipe will provide a cocktail accompaniment for a huge crowd or a first course for several dinner parties. You may even have extra left for Sunday brunch. Whether serving gravlax naked or sauced, use only the very freshest fish to make it. Brining extends the shelf life of the salmon, but only for a few extra days, the exact length of time depending on the fish’s freshness, handling and storage. Well-wrapped and refrigerated, gravlax will last at least a week—not including the curing time. But if you smell any off odors sooner, discard it.

Gorgeous gravlax is a you-can’t-go-wrong-no-brainer. It’s perfection, unusual and the least expensive luxury food on the planet.

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Gravlax

Ingredients

Serves about 20 as an hors d’oeuvres, or 12-16 as an appetizer

GRAVLAX:

• Approximately 3 pounds fresh salmon filet, two 1/2 pound center cut pieces, skin on

• 1 large bunch of dill, washed and shaken dry

• 1/2 cup kosher salt

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 2 tablespoons white peppercorns, crushed (black peppercorns can be substituted if you prefer)

• 2 tablespoons whole fennel seeds toasted and cooled (optional) 

• 2 tablespoons crushed coriander seeds toasted and cooled (optional)

  To Serve:

  Small pumpernickel, whole wheat, rye or brioche toasts

  Dill sprigs to garnish

  Mustard Sauce, recipe follows

MUSTARD SAUCE

• 6 tablespoons honey mustard

• 3-4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 1/2  cup tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• 1/2  teaspoon salt or more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

METHOD

GRAVLAX:

1.  Cut the salmon in half crosswise and place half the fish skin side down in a deep dish. 

2. Place the dill on the fish. 

3. Combine the salt, sugar, toasted seeds and crushed peppercorns in a small bowl and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the layer of dill. 

4. Place the second half of salmon on top, skin side up. 

5. Cover the dish with a lid if available--otherwise with aluminum foil. 

6. Refrigerate the salmon for 48-72 hours, turning it a few times and basting it with the liquid that collects in the pan.

7. After 48 hours, slice off a piece of salmon, rinse and taste to see if it's cured to your liking. If not, wait 12 more hours and keep checking till ready. I tend to like it after 48 hours. When salmon is cured, discard the bunch of dill, and quickly rinse the marinade spices off the fish in cool water. Dry well with paper towels.  

8. Lay the 2 pieces of salmon on a cutting board or platter and sprinkle with chopped dill. Slice the salmon in long thin slices as you would for smoked salmon. Serve with toasts and mustard sauce.

Extra salmon will keep for at least 1 week refrigerated.

MUSTARD SAUCE

1. Whisk mustard and vinegar in small bowl to blend.

2. Gradually whisk in oil. Stir in chopped dill and salt.

3. Season with ground black pepper.

Sauce can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill.

Alternatively, process everything but the fresh dill in a food processor or blender. When smooth, pulse in the dill. Leave the dill chopped but still visible.