August 2020 - The Best Oreo Make-Ahead Ice Cream Tart

August 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

My mother made a wide variety of ice cream pies when I was little. I often even requested one on my birthday instead of a cake-cake. I've recreated a favorite from memory, but pick favorite flavors and let your imagination run wild. HUGE BONUS: crust and ice cream can put together and frozen for up to six months (or more) in advance. When time for dessert, just whip the cream and top the tart.

Just be sure to wrap WELL (edges folded together so that no air whatsoever gets in) in ALUMINUM foil. Or foil over plastic wrap but NOT plastic wrap only!

Although an old-fashioned throwback, everyone goes wild over this cookie- candy-crust- ice cream-whipped-cream concoction. Below is a basic recipe but PLEASE EXPERIMENT. I have a feeling you'll be making this version and variations way more than once!!

For crust variety, try 'nilla wafers, ginger snaps, chocolate chip cookies, chocolate wafers, vanilla sandwich cookies, graham crackers or something else. Ground nuts can also be added to the crust and/or sprinkled between the layers. In summer I like vanilla ice cream and orange or raspberry or mango sorbet. Or vanilla ice cream and two or more flavors of sorbet. I also like vanilla ice cream with strawberry or raspberry ice cream and then a fresh berry garnish on top of the whipped cream (a single berry or mixed

Salted Caramel Ice Cream is good with a ginger snap crust. As is fresh pear ice cream or pear sorbet and vanilla ice cream. Chopped candied ginger is delicious sprinkled on top and/or between the layers.

I love peppermint stick, vanilla and chocolate ice creams with a mint oreo cookie crust.

Chopped hard candy, peppermint sticks, heath bars or English toffee, After Eights, praline, meringue, coffee crunch, peanut butter cups, butterfingers, etc. - all delicious as garnish depending on ice cream flavors. Chocolate, caramel or berry sauces a great addition.

And consider flavoring the whipped cream with cocoa powder, instant espresso or a liqueur of your choice.

Please let me know what you end up making and how it turns out!!!!

The Best Make-Ahead Oreo Ice Cream Tart

Ingredients

Serves 12-15

FOR THE CRUST:

35 Oreo cookies—3 cups graham cracker crumbs, chocolate or “nilla wafer crumbs may be substituted. You can also experiment with chocolate chip cookie crumbs or ginger snaps. Let your imagination go wild. Just remember to pair the ice cream flavors with whatever crust you choose.
5 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3/4 teaspoon coarse salt

FOR THE FILLING:

3-4 pints best quality ice cream - 1 flavor or mixed. I like using coffee or coffee and chocolate. Or chocolate and mint chocolate chip. Whatever….
Optional melted chocolate sauce or milted semisweet chocolate to drizzle between ice cream layers. Optionally also on crust. OR substitute caramel sauce. OR raspberry sauce if you are using sorbets, vanilla ice cream and strawberry or raspberry ice cream Options are endless.

FOR THE TOPPING:

1 cup heavy cream, very cold
1 teaspoon vanilla extract heavy cream
1 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
Crushed Oreos, crushed Heath Bars, or crushed candy canes for garnish (optional) or toasted nuts or something else of your choice. Depends on the ice cream flavors. After Eights are also good.

Method

Make the crust: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Add Oreos to the bowl of a food processor and process until fine crumbs form. Add melted butter and salt, and process until crumbs are evenly moistened. Tip mixture out into a 10-inch springform pan, and press crumbs evenly into bottom and sides of pan. Bake until crust is fragrant and set, about 12 minutes.
Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
Be sure crust is cool. You can even freeze or refrigerate it first.Soften ice cream a bit and spread it (layered if different flavors). Sprinkle some of the topping between the layers if desired. With or without caramel or chocolate sauce. Freeze, well-wrapped in foil for up to two months.
When ready to serve, remove tart from freezer and place on a platter.
Place the cream, vanilla and sugar in a cold bowl of an electric mixer and mix till light and fluffy. Don’t overmix.
Spread whipped cream on top of the tart and sprinkle with toppings of your choice if desired.

July 2020 - Uncooked Summer Sauces

July 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

2020_July_Uncooked Summer Sauces — UNCOOKED SUMMER SAUCES

About the Recipe

For many of us, nothing tastes better or defines summer more acutely than a chunk of meat, chicken, fish, seafood, or even a passel of veggies grilled en plein air over an open fire. Perhaps it’s our caveman ancestry, but whatever the reason, a meal produced over flames excites our spirits and imaginations at well as our taste buds.

Nonetheless, mid summer arrives and the novelty of the grill wanes. I crave something extra to enhance those basics grillades. But my summer-hot kitchen is hardly inviting. Enter a parade of quick, highly flavorful, no-cook sauces. Tasty vinaigrettes, salsas and creamy dressings dramatically enliven any grilled offering and often brilliantly alter the entire tenor of a meal.

Below are six of my favorites from around the globe, each versatile, bursting with flavor, and easy—four of them made in the food processor and--conveniently--improved if prepared several days in advance. Only the Mango-Mint Chutney and the Cucumber-Dill sauces are made by hand.

Fresh Mango-Mint Chutney

Makes 7-8 cups

Ingredients

2 large or 4 small mangoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro or more to taste
3/4 cup fresh mint leaves, finely julienned
1/2 cup finely minced red onion or more to taste
1/2 jalapeno pepper, ribs removed, seeded and finely minced or more to taste
Juice and zest of 2 limes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

METHOD

Mix all the ingredients together and set aside for at least an hour at room temperature to allow the flavors to marry.
Adjust seasoning and serve.

Muhamarra

Makes approximately 3 cups

Ingredients

2 1/2 pounds roasted sweet red bell peppers
1 1/2 cups walnuts
1/2 cup wheat crackers or zweibach
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, more for garnish
Salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Approximately1 tablespoon Turkish red pepper paste or to taste
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, more for garnish

METHOD

In a food processor, grind the walnuts and crackers with the lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, cumin, salt, and sugar until smooth. Add the roasted peppers and process until puréed and creamy.
With the machine on, add the olive oil in a thin stream. Add the red pepper paste to taste. If the paste is too thick, thin with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water. Refrigerate overnight.
To serve, let the dip come to room temperature, sprinkle with cumin, and drizzle with olive oil.

NOTE: If you want to roast the peppers yourself: Roast the peppers and chili over a gas burner or under a broiler, turning frequently until blackened and blistered all over, about 12 minutes. Place in a covered bowl to steam for 10 minutes. Rub off the skins, slit peppers open, and remove stems, membranes and seeds. Spread the peppers, smooth side up, on a paper towel and let drain for 10 minutes.

Cucumber-Dill Sauce

Makes approximately 4 cups

Ingredients

2 cups sour cream, crème fraiche or Greek yogurt
1 medium red onion, peeled and finely minced
1/4 cup minced chives
1/2 cup finely minced fresh dill
4 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar or more to taste
Few drops of Tabasco or other hot chili sauce
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 medium cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

METHOD

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients except the cucumber. Refrigerate for at least an hour to allow the flavors to combine.
When ready to serve, stir in the cucumber and adjust salt and pepper
NOTE: If you want to add the cucumber earlier, toss it with 2 teaspoons of salt and let it sit for 20 minutes. Than drain off the excess water and squeeze dry in a kitchen towel. Add to the sauce. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Old-Fashioned Thousand Island Dressing

Makes approximately 2 cups

Ingredients

1 cup best-quality purchased or homemade mayonnaise
1/4 cup bottled chili sauce (such as Heinz)
1/4 cup tomato catsup
1 1/2 tablespoons minced pitted black olives
2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons prepared white horseradish
2 teaspoons sweet relish
1 large shallot, peeled and finely minced
2 tablespoons finely minced green bell pepper
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh dill
1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon sea salt or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Several drops of Tabasco sauce or a pinch of cayenne pepper
Optional additions: minced pitted green olives, minced dill pickle, minced hard boiled egg

METHOD

Whisk or stir all ingredients together in a small bowl.
Set aside for at least 30 minutes (and up to 2 days if refrigerated) to allow the flavors to marry.
Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve.

Green Goddess Dressing

Makes approximately 2 1/2 cups

Ingredients

2 large ripe Haas avocados, peeled and quartered. Save the seeds.
Juice and finely grated zest of 2 lemons
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons white wine vinegar
2 large garlic cloves, peeled
8 oil-packed anchovy fillets
Salt, pepper, Tabasco sauce to taste

METHOD

Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor and process till smooth.
Transfer to a bowl and bury the avocado seeds in the dressing.
Cover with plastic wrap touching the surface of the sauce to prevent oxidation.
Refrigerate until ready to use. Best if made no more than three hours before using.

Raw Peanut Sauce

Makes approximately 2 1/4 cups

Ingredients

1 cup creamy peanut butter
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled
1-2 tablespoons coarsely chopped peeled ginger
Zest and juice of one large lime
Large pinch of cayenne pepper or several drops of sriracha
2 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
2-4 tablespoons light coconut milk or water, as needed
1/3 cup chopped cilantro (optional)
Salt if necessary to taste

METHOD

Place all of the ingredients except the cilantro in a food processor or blender and process on high speed until smooth.
Adjust seasonings to taste and then add the cilantro if using and pulse to combine.
Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.

June 2020 - Summer Rolls

June 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

**SUMMER ROLLS**

with Sweet and Spicy Chili Dipping Sauce

About the Recipe

Summer rolls-- paper-thin bánh tráng or rice paper sheets wrapped around a refreshingly light salad filling typically consisting of vegetables, herbs, vermicelli and a small amount of shrimp, pork, or chicken---- are uncooked hand-held treats. Served cold or at room temperature, they are thus easy to distinguish from spring or egg rolls which are deep-fried and served hot.

Crunchily vegetal summer rolls are ideal to make and eat as temperatures rise. Just soften your banh trang in water, lay them flat, and top with a few spoonfuls of filling. The folding—an exercise in simple origami—is fun and goes quickly. Get the basic recipe down, and then start tweaking. Salted peanuts, Thai or purple basil, and finely diced radish, bell pepper or cucumber are great additions as are avocado and cooked pork belly.

This garden-fresh wrap is traditionally paired with an intensely flavored, Asian-inspired sauce resulting in a mélange of flavors and textures that explode on the palate. I adore the sweet chili dipping sauce below, but peanut, hoisin-based, and nuoc mam cham versions vie for a close second place.

Summer Rolls

Makes 16 rolls, serving 8 as an appetizer

Time: Approximately 30 minutes.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil such as canola
8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
4 ounces Asian vermicelli noodles
3/4 pound cooked, shelled and roughly chopped shrimp (roughly chopped cooked chicken or roast pork may be substituted)
1/2 head Napa cabbage or 1 whole head soft lettuce such as Boston, finely shredded
4 medium carrots, peeled and shredded or coarsely grated
1 large bunch cilantro, chopped (save stems for the dipping sauce)
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
8 whole scallions, cut in paper thin rounds
1 ½ tablespoons ground coriander
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
16 sheets 22 centimeters round or square rice paper (banh tang)
1 recipe Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce (below)

Method

In a medium skillet, heat the oil and fry the garlic until golden, about 5 minutes. Off heat stir in the shrimp and set aside.
Soak the vermicelli in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain noodles and cook in boiling water, stirring frequently to break up the clumps, until al dente, 2-3 minutes.
Drain cooked noodles and refresh under cold water. Drain again and set aside.
In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage or lettuce, carrots, cilantro, mint, scallions, ground coriander, garlicky shrimp and cooked vermicelli. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Immerse one rice paper at a time in a warm-hot water, Watch for it to begin curling, then immediately flip it over and continue flipping until it is just softened, 30-60 seconds. Use both hands to pull it up out of the water, being careful it doesn't collapse on itself or tear, and spread it immediately on a damp kitchen towel.
Place 1/16 of the filling mixture (3-4 tablespoons) near the top of the wet wrapper. Roll the top end tightly over the filling and then fold in the sides. Finish rolling till closed and snug. The final product will look like a small burrito.
Continue this way until all 16 are finished. They can wait covered with a damp towel until ready to serve, up to 3 hours.
To serve, cut each in half horizontally and serve 4 halves per person accompanied by Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce.

Sweet and Spicy Chili Dipping Sauce

Makes approximately 1 ½ cups

Time: Active time: 10 minutes plus cooling time

Ingredients

Cilantro stems reserved from the filling, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil such as canola
1 cup minus 3 tablespoons (13 tablespoons)unseasoned rice wine vinegar (white wine vinegar may be substituted)
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons Asian Red Pepper Paste or Garlic Chili Paste
1/2 cup sugar
2-3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or more to taste

Method

In a medium saucepan, saute chopped cilantro stems and garlic in the oil until very fragrant and garlic is beginning to color, about 5 minutes.
Add vinegar, fish sauce, paste, and sugar and simmer until the sugar has dissolved, 3-5 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Add lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning—fish sauce, salt and pepper-- before serving.

May 2020 - Cioppino

May 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Cioppino originated on the boats off San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, arriving with the Genoese fishermen immigrating to America between the Gold Rush and the 1930's. Traditionally a catch-of-the-day affair-- one in a large family of robust and flavorful seafood stews that flourish in ports around the world--it is now defined by freshness and a diversity of local fish and shellfish combined with garlic, tomatoes and wine.

Granted I'm a seafood lover and thus a bit biased, but this is definitely one of my favorite dishes on the planet. Crab forks and lobster crackers come in handy as do bibs and plenty of napkins. Be sure to make the garlic mayonnaise as it dramatically enhances the stew. And don't forget the toast--sour dough if you can get it--to sop up the juices.

Cioppino

Ingredients

THE RECIPE CAN BE PREPARED UP TO 48 HOURS AHEAD TO THIS POINT AND REFRIGERATED AFTER COOLING COMPLETELY. ACTUALLY IS EVEN BETTER MADE AHEAD.

For the Cioppino:

Serves 8-10

16 large ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/2 inch slices crosswise
1/4 cup plus 2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup peeled and finely diced onion
3/4 cup thinly sliced celery
3/4 cup diced fresh fennel
3/4 cup carrots, peeled and cut into small dice
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 cup Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur
8 cups rich fish stock
Finely grated zest of one orange
1 teaspoon saffron threads
1 teaspoon sea salt
40 cherrystone clams, rinsed
40 mussels, debearded and well scrubbed if necessary
40 medium shrimp
2 pounds monkfish, cut into one-inch squares
2 pounds cleaned squid, cut into 1/4 inch rings
1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup julienned fresh basil
Fennel leaves if available
Garlic mayonnaise, recipe below
Lots of thick-cut crusty sour dough, peasant or French bread, toasted

For the Garlic Mayonaise:

Makes approximately 1 1/2 cups

1 room temperature egg
1 large clove peeled garlic or more to taste
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper plus more to taste
a few drops of Tabasco sauce or more to taste
1/2 cup tasteless vegetable oil
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
More salt, pepper, garlic and lemon juice, to taste

Method

For the Cioppino:

Preheat the oven to 425F. Lay the tomato slices on a greased baking sheet and drizzle with the 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast until caramelized, 30-40 minutes. Cool and cut into medium dice. Set aside in a small bowl.
Over medium heat and in a large casserole or stock pot, heat the 1/4 cup olive oil with the onions, celery, fennel and carrots. Cook, stirring frequently for 10 minutes If the mixture becomes too dry or brown, add a bit of fish stock or water.
Add the garlic and cook until the vegetables are soft and beginning to color, approximately 10 to 15 minutes more.
Warm the Pernod in a small saucepan. Turn off both burners and flame the vegetables with the Pernod, stirring until the flames have completely subsided
Return the pot to medium heat and add the fish stock, zest, saffron, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper and chopped tomatoes. Bring to a simmer, stir, reduce heat and cook 5 minutes.
When ready to serve, heat the broth over medium heat to a simmer, but do not boil.
Add the mussels and clams and cover. Cook 2 minutes, then add the shrimp and monkfish. Cover and cook 2 more minutes. Add the squid and cook for a minute or so. Do not overcook but make sure the clams and mussels are open and everything else is done.
Add parsley, basil, and fennel leaves if using. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce.
Serve divided into hot bowls, being sure to give everyone some of everything
Pass the Garlic Mayo and lots of toasted crusty French bread or place a piece of toast spread with mayo in the bottom of each bowl.

For the Garlic Mayonaise:

Put the first 7 ingredients (ROOM TEMPERATURE) in the bowl of a food processor or blender and process a few seconds to blend
Mix the two oils together
With the machine running, add the oil mixture, first drop by drop and then in a very slow stream, to the ingredients already in the food processor.
When the mayonnaise is thick and all the oil has been added, taste and adjust seasonings.

April 2020 - Green Pea Smash

April 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Some may find my preferring frozen peas to fresh heretical. While excitement abounds each spring as farmers’ market diehards welcome a new crop of green peas, the season is short and often not so sweet. Just-harvested peas are sublime, but once picked, sugar soon turns to starch and disappointment sets in. Although anti-intuitive, I’ve found that peas from the supermarket freezer aisle meet my expectations every time while those from the garden fall short unless cooked immediately after picking. I first tasted mushy peas, a British stand-by, many years ago at a pre-theater dinner at London's legendary Sheekey's. Since then I've made them for myself, my family, dinner parties and have taught the recipe often in my classes.

This recipe will delight family and friends alike, and even the most skeptically pea-adverse tend to cry out, “more peas, please.”

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion
13-16 ounce bag frozen green peas, thawed
2-4 tablespoons heavy cream and more if needed for thinning
1-2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons butter
3/4 teaspoon sea salt and 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper or more of each to taste

Method

Heat oil in a large saucepan set over medium-high heat.
Add onion and cook till softened and beginning to color, about 5 minutes.
Add thawed peas and cream and cook about 5 minutes more or until piping hot.
Put the contents of the pan, the mint, the butter and salt and pepper in a food processor or blender and pulse a few times.

If you like your mushy peas a but runny add a bit more heavy cream or a few tablespoons of whole milk. Reheat if necessary. Serve right away.

March 2020 - Sweet and Spicy Asian Meatballs

March 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

2020_March_Asian+Meatballs.jpg — SWEET and SPICY ASIAN MEATBALLS

About the Recipe

Asian meatballs are the absolute best!! And these are the best I've ever had, my favorite go-to hors d'oeuvre ever since my close friend and upstairs neighbor, Robert Burke, gave me the recipe last September. You can use with any ground meat or poultry. I'm even curious about experimenting with ground tuna or salmon...but I haven't gotten there yet.

Serve them as part of a cocktail party passed hors d'oeuvres selection or just as a simple stand-alone nibble alongside pre-meal martinis at your next dinner party. They're super flavorful and addictive. Even my tiny, picky-eater granddaughter devoured at least 20 when I made them for her second birthday party last fall.

They're a fab freezer asset. Make them ahead, freeze them raw for months, and bake them straight from the freezer at party time.

Enjoy!!

Ingredients

For the Meatballs:

2 lbs. ground meat, turkey and/or chicken. I like 1 pound pork and 1 pound ground beef (but ground chicken, turkey or lamb are good additions too)
3 tablespoons or more toasted. sesame oil
1 cup Panko or breadcrumbs
1-2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger (can substitute 2-3 teaspoons ground ginger. Or use a combo)
2 eggs
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup thinly-sliced scallions
optional garnish: toasted sesame seeds, sliced scallions or chopped chives

For the Sauce:

2/3 cup hoisin sauce
1/4 cup rice vinegar or more to taste (or extra can be lime juice)
3 garlic large cloves, minced
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon. ground ginger or 1-2 T grated fresh ginger
hot sauce to taste
salt and pepper to taste

Method

Preheat oven to 425-450.
Process all meatball ingredients except the panko last in a food processor.
Add the panko and pulse just to combine.
Shape meat mixture into 1-inch balls (easiest when meat is very cold) and place on a parchment or foil-lined baking sheet or in a 9×13-inch baking dish.
Bake for 10-12 minutes in upper part of oven, or until meatballs are golden on the outside and no longer pink on the inside.
NOTE: I highly suggest frying up a little bit of the meat mixture to taste and see if you want to add more seasoning (salt, pepper, garlic etc). The meatballs should be highly seasoned.
While the meatballs are baking, whisk together all of the sauce ingredients until blended. I use the food processor or blender for this as well.
Once meatballs have finished cooking, pour the sauce over the meatballs and gently stir to combine. Top with sesame seeds and scallions and serve hot, warm or room temperature with toothpicks on the side.

February 2020 - Baked Pasta

February 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

2020_February_Baked Pasta-ALT2.jpg — BAKED PASTA

with Mushrooms and Radicchio

About the Recipe

In the California kitchen of my childhood, baked pasta was synonymous with macaroni and cheese. And in college I discovered lasagna. But it was only after several dinners in the 1980’s at Providence, Rhode Island’s now-legendary Al Forno that I realized how many options for baked-in-the oven-crunchy-on-top -and-luscious-within pasta dishes existed. Turns out the options are endless.

Reading Cucina Simpatica--a fabulous cookbook written by James Beard Award-winning husband-and-wife team George Germon and Johann Killeen who own the restaurant-- I learned that "al forno" is Italian for "from the oven" and that recipes for these pastas hark back to the Middle Ages, when ovens were wood-fired and usually communal, villagers carrying uncooked casseroles to town squares to be baked side-by-side with those of their neighbors.

I highly recommend all Germon and Killeen’s cookbooks. The recipe below is my take on Baked Pasta with Mushrooms and Radicchio from Cucina Simpatica. Pasta al forno recipes are flexible. Feel free to substitute ingredients of your choice or even leftovers from the fridge. Hard to go wrong with so much cheese, cream, onions and garlic. Clearly not low-cal, but without doubt, comfort food at its very best.

For convenience, I often double or triple baked pasta recipes; uncooked dishes can be wrapped in foil, frozen for months and then popped into the oven as needed. Defrost first or bake frozen (extending the baking time as needed).

Ingredients

Serves 8 as a first course or 10-12 as a side dish

½ pound sliced mushrooms (any kind or mixed)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1½ teaspoons salt
2½ cups heavy cream
½ cup grated fontina cheese
½ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
½ cup crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese
2 tablespoons fresh ricotta
½ cup minced yellow onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups finely shredded radicchio
1¼ teaspoon salt or more to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8-10 leaves fresh sage chopped (or substitute 2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, 1 teaspoon dried thyme or rosemary, or with 1 teaspoon whole fennel seed)
½ - 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons grated parmesan to sprinkle on top
1 pound imported pasta—fusilli, shells or penne

Method

Preheat the oven to 500 °F with rack in highest position
Bring at least five quarts of salted water to the boil in a large pot
Heat 6 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet, add the mushrooms and salt and cook, stirring frequently until done and very tender, about ten minutes.
In a large bowl combine the cream, cheeses, onion, garlic, cooked mushrooms, radicchio, fresh sage, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper.
Parboil the pasta in the boiling water for exactly 4 minutes. Drain and immediately add to the bowl with the cream mixture.
Transfer the mixture to a large gratin dish. Pasta should be no more than 1 ½ inch deep. If necessary, use a second dish.
Evenly divide the remaining butter over the top and sprinkle generously with Parmesan
Bake until the pasta is bubbly and very hot and the top begins to brown, about 12-15 minutes. Let rest a few minutes before serving.

January 2020 - Roast Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic

January 1, 2020Gail Monaghan

ROAST CHICKEN

with 40 Cloves of Meltingly Tender Garlic

About the Recipe

By the time January kicks in, I'm done with fois gras, done with prime rib, done with whipped cream desserts-at least for a while. What I'm ready for is basic comfort food. This recipe for Roast Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic is a loose adaptation of a Richard Olney signature dish, and has been a favorite of mine and of my cooking students for years. Enlivened with Pernod and a myriad of herbs and spices, the cuisine de grandmère concoction outdoes Grandma’s wildest dreams. And because the casserole is covered until the last 20 minutes of cooking, optimum juiciness is guaranteed. When the lid is removed and the heat raised, the bird slips seamlessly from pale gold to crispy brown perfection.

If you are freaked out by the idea of Pernod with your chicken and of so much garlic, please don't be. It turns out that a few tablespoons of the anise-flavored liqueur exude a mellow opulence, and that all those garlic cloves, caramelized on the outside while remaining sumptuously soft within, are food for the gods. Spread on thick slices of Country Toast or on the chicken itself, the garlic goes down as easily as creamery butter. I like to serve the chicken with pan-roasted root veggies, but sautéed green beans, most spinach preparations, green peas and/or potatoes or noodles work just fine too.

Ingredients

For the Seasoning:

2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 1⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Chicken:

1 (4 1⁄2–5 pound) whole chicken, rinsed in cool water and dried
1 large onion, sliced
1⁄2 bulb fennel, trimmed and sliced
10 sprigs fresh Italian parsley
1 small bunch fresh tarragon, plus more,chopped, for garnish
1 bay leaf
40 cloves garlic, whole and unpeeled
1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons of Pernod, Sambuca, or
other anise-flavored liqueur

Method

Make the Seasoning; combine the thyme, salt, and pepper and set aside.
Place 1⁄2 each of the onion, fennel, parsley, and tarragon in the bottom of a lidded casserole just large enough to hold the chicken. Rub the chicken, inside and out, with the seasoning, place the bay leaf and the remaining 1⁄2 of the vegetables and herbs inside the chicken, and place it, breast side up, in the casse- role. Set aside. (Refrigerate if not roasting within 4 hours.)
With a rack adjusted to the lower-third position, preheat the oven to 350°F.
Combine the garlic, oil, salt, and pepper and pour the mixture over the chicken. Then pour the Pernod over the chicken.
Cover the casserole and roast for 1 hour.
Raise the oven temperature to 500°F and remove the lid. If, once you’ve removed the lid, you can fit the casserole on a higher rack, do so as the chicken will brown better. Continue roasting for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the chicken is golden and cooked through. Test for doneness by piercing the thickest part of the thigh with a fork or inserting an instant-read thermometer. The juices should run clear rather than pink and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the breast should register 158°F.
Place the chicken on a carving board to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving.
While the chicken is resting, use a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked garlic to a small bowl. Set aside.
Strain the juices from the casserole into a heatproof pitcher. Re- frigerate or freeze so that the fat will rise to the top more quickly.
Remove the pitcher from the refrigerator or freezer and use a spoon to remove as much of the fat as possible. Reheat the pan juices in a microwave or transfer them to a small saucepan and warm over medium heat.
Carve the chicken and arrange the slices on a serving platter. Pour about 1⁄4 of the warmed pan juices over the chicken. Top with the cooked garlic and garnish with the chopped tarragon.
Serve the chicken hot or warm with the pitcher of remaining pan juices.

December 2019 - Cookies, Cookies, Cookies!

December 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

December is Holiday Central. And I have dozens of favorite dishes--delicious starters, main courses, sides and desserts--that I prepare for Christmas Eve, Christmas, Hanukah, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day. So many in fact that in a quandary, I've decided to give some of my go-to cookie and candy recipes instead. I've made these recipes again and again for gift-giving, snacking and primarily to give as gifts. Layer in a holiday tin or place in a cellophane bag and tie with a festive ribbon and you're all set.

Other than the Chocolate-Chocolate Shortbread, everything will keep for at least 2 weeks well-sealed at room temperature and frozen for months. For longer storage, cook the Chocolate-Chocolate shortbread a few minutes longer so that the cooled cookies will be crisp rather than soft and chewy. Equally delicious, just different.

Basic Shortbread with Four Divine Variations

Yields approximately 200 (1⁄2-inch round) cookies

This makes enough basic shortbread dough for a huge number of cookies. The exact number will depend on the size. If there is too much dough to use at one time (there probably will be), you can freeze the surplus in one or in multiple packages. Thaw in the fridge before using.

Ingredients

2 cups unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 large egg, room temperature
2 teaspoons best-quality pure vanilla extract
5 cups sifted all-purpose flour

Method

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric hand- held mixer set to medium–high speed, cream the butter, sugar, and salt for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.
Add the egg and the vanilla and beat 3 minutes more, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula.
With motor off, add the flour.
With the mixer on low speed, mix until just combined.
Roll the dough into logs 11⁄2 inches in diameter and 8 inches to 10 inches long. Lightly flouring your hands and the work surface can help. If the dough is too warm to do this easily, refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until it is easy to work with.
Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours and up to 3 days (or wrap the logs in foil and freeze for up to 6 months).
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the logs into 1⁄8-inch to 1⁄2-inch slices (depending on how thick you want your cookies) and place on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.
Bake for 10 to 20 minutes, or until slightly colored (timing will depend on the thickness of the cookies). Transfer the cookies to wire racks. When completely cool, store in a covered container for 1 to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.

As for the variations, the candied ginger is my favorite, but the elegant espresso version is divine with an after-dinner coffee or a cappuccino. And any variety is a great solo or added to a cookie platter!

VARIATIONS:

Espresso: Replace 10 tablespoons of the flour with 10 tablespoons of finely ground espresso. Use only 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract.

Anise: Add 3 tablespoons of toasted whole anise seed and 1 teaspoon of ground anise seed to the flour. Replace the vanilla with 2 teaspoons of Pernod or another anise-flavored liquor.

Citrus: Add the freshly grated zest of 3 oranges, 4 lemons, or 6 limes and 1 teaspoon of a matching citrus extract. Omit the vanilla.

Ginger: Use only a 1⁄2 teaspoon of vanilla and add 2 tablespoons of ground ginger and 1 1/4 cup of very finely minced candied ginger.

Chocolate-Chocolate Shortbread

Yields 35–45 cookies

These cookies are adapted from a Pierre Herme recipe via Dorie Greenspan. They are soft and chewy—so not technically shortbread—and the best chocolate cookies I know. Because the combination of chocolate and salt is a fave, I’ve added extra salt. For the original, less salty version, use 1⁄4 rather than 1⁄2 teaspoon.

Ingredients

1⁄4 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄3 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda
1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 stick, plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2⁄3 cup densely packed dark brown sugar
1⁄4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon best-quality pure vanilla extract
5 ounces best-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into bits (best-quality semisweet chocolate chips can be substituted)

Method

Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric hand- held mixer set on medium–high speed, cream the butter with the brown and granulated sugars for 3 to 5 minutes, or until creamy.
Add the vanilla and beat for 1 to 2 more minutes. Reduce the speed to low, add the dry ingredients and chocolate bits, and mix until just combined. Don’t be concerned if the dough looks a little crumbly. For the best texture, work the dough as little as possible once the flour is added.
Turn the dough out onto a work surface, gather it together and divide it in half. Working with one half at a time, shape the dough into logs that are 11⁄2inches in diameter. Lightly flouring your hands and the work surface will help.
Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate them for at least 3 hours. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months. If you’ve frozen the dough, you needn’t defrost it completely before baking, but you will need to bake the frozen dough 1 minute longer.)
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
Working with a sharp knife, slice the logs into rounds about 1⁄3-inch thick. (If the cookies break apart when slicing, just squeeze the broken bits back together.) Place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving at least 3⁄4 of an inch between cookies.
Bake 1 sheet at a time for 13 minutes. The cookies won’t look done and will not be firm, but that is the way they should be. Let cool on the cookie sheets. Stored in a covered container, the cookies will keep up to 3 days. They can be frozen for up to 1 month.

Peppermint Bark

Yields 2 1⁄2 pounds bark

This is virtually the same bark (actually I think it’s better) that you can order online for $20 to $30 per pound. It makes an ideal Christmas gift or stocking stuffer, though I’m addicted all year long. Coarsely chopped and served over vanilla or peppermint ice cream, it’s to die for. A drizzle of Bitter Chocolate Sauce sends the sundae over the top.

Ingredients

1 1⁄2 pounds Guittard or other best-quaity semisweet chocolate chips or chopped semisweet chocolate
1⁄2 pound Guittard or other best-quality white chocolate chips or chopped white chocolate
1⁄2 teaspoon peppermint extract
1–2 cups peppermint candy canes, cut into approximate 1⁄2-inch pieces

Method

Preheat the oven to 250°F and line a 9-inch × 13-inch pan with parchment paper, letting the paper hang over the sides for easy removal. Set aside.
Shake or spread the chocolate chips into an even layer on the parchment paper. Place in the oven for 5 minutes, or until almost melted. Remove from oven, smooth with an offset spatula or knife. Set aside.
Melt the white chocolate chips in a double boiler or in a metal bowl set over simmering water (don’t let bottom of bowl touch water), until almost melted. Remove the bowl from the water, add the peppermint extract, and stir until completely melted.
Pour melted white chocolate over the still slightly soft chocolate layer and, working quickly, spread to cover. The 2 chocolates may “marble” a bit. If you prefer that they don’t, chill chocolate layer before adding the white chocolate. However, if the first layer is too hard, the layers don’t properly adhere and sometimes separate when cut into pieces.
While the white chocolate is still warm, evenly sprinkle with the candy canes and then use your hands to press the candy into the chocolate.
Chill for 30 to 60 minutes, or until both layers are firm. Lift paper out of pan and place on a cutting board.
The easiest way to “cut” the bark is to insert the tip of a large heavy knife and apply pressure. The bark will immediately begin to break up. Repeat until the pieces are the desired size.
Place the candy in a covered container. Store at room temperature for up to 1 week or in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Chocolate-Ginger Biscotti

Yields about 36 biscotti

I created these biscotti years ago for the original Dean and Deluca. That gig is long over, but I’m still making the biscotti and everyone still loves them. The combination of dark chocolate and chewy, sweet, and spicy candied ginger is hard to beat.

Ingredients

1 cup granulated sugar
5 1⁄2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large whole eggs, room temperature
1⁄4 teaspoon best-quality pure vanilla extract
3 oz candied ginger, chopped
2 1⁄2 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
2 oz toasted unsalted macadamia or cashew nuts, coarsely chopped
1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder
1⁄4 teaspoon powdered ginger
1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 1⁄3 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
7 oz semisweet chocolate
2 teaspoons neutral oil, such as canola

Method

Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric handheld mixer set on medium speed, cream the sugar and butter for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.
Add the eggs and vanilla and beat 5 minutes more, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally with a rubber spatula.
Mix the chopped ginger, chopped chocolate, and nuts together in a small bowl. Add them to the batter and beat until combined.
Sift the baking powder, powdered ginger, salt, flour, and cocoa powder together onto a piece of waxed paper and gradually add to the batter while beating on low speed. Beat until just combined.
Divide the batter into quarters and roll into logs about 11⁄2 inches in diam- eter. Lightly flouring your hands and the work surface will help, as the dough is sticky.
Place the logs at least 2 inches apart on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper and bake for 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven. When cool, cut into 1⁄2-inch slices and place back on the cookie sheets. Bake for 5 minutes on each side and transfer to wire racks to cool.
Optionally, once the biscotti are completely cool, melt the semisweet choc- olate with the oil in a small saucepan set over low heat. One at a time, dip the flat of each of the biscotti into the chocolate and place on wax paper–lined cookie sheets. Refrigerate until the chocolate is hard.
Store in airtight cans for up to 4 weeks at room temperature or in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 4 months.
VARIATION :
Orange–Hazelnut Biscotti: Omit both gingers and replace with 1 tablespoon grated orange zest. Use hazelnuts instead of the macadamias or cashews. And add 1⁄4 cup of raisins or currants along with the chopped chocolate.

Tiny Chocolate Chip Cookies

Yields at least 200 tiny cookies

This is truly a case of less is more. These tiny, bite-sized cookies are infinitely better than the large ones. Or maybe it’s a case of more is more as they are incredibly chocolaty with proportionately 4 times as many chocolate chips as in normal Toll House cookies. Remember: It’s easier to form the cookies if the dough is very cold; refrigerate for several hours or freeze for an hour or two.

Ingredients

2 1⁄4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1⁄4 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup densely packed dark brown sugar
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon best-quality pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, room temperature
8 cups (4 [12-ounce] packages) semi-sweet chocolate chips

Method

Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Sift the flour, salt, and baking soda together onto a piece of waxed paper. Set aside.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric handheld mixer set on medium–high speed, cream the butter and brown and granulated sugars for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the vanilla extract and then the eggs and continue to mix about 3 to 5 minutes more, or until fluffy.
Add the sifted dry ingredients and the chips and beat on low speed until just combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
Using a table knife, scoop up small bits of batter— a teaspoon or less per cookie—and place about 1⁄2 inch apart on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper. Be sure to include at least 2 or 3 chocolate chips in each cookie cookie. Bake for about 8 minutes, or until golden. Transfer to wire racks to cool.
When completely cool, store in a covered container for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.

November 2019 - Chocolate Shortcakes

November 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

CHOCOLATE SHORTCAKES

with Armagnac Prunes

About the Recipe

For most of us, November kicks off the holiday season. From mid-month through New Year’s Day, most of us find ourselves entertaining more than at any other time of year. There are endless ways to say “Festive”—especially when it comes to dessert-- and one of my favorites is little shortcakes, individually portioned for each guest, lavishly layered with thick cream, ice cream, fruit or all of the above. We all know the strawberry iteration classic, but why stop there? Good berries are seasonal, but luckily there many other filling options. And there’s plenty of playing around to be done with the cake part of the equation as well.

A liquor-laced chocolate-torte batter bakes well in a muffin tin for shortcake-size portions. Filled with Armagnac-steeped prunes and tangy vanilla crème fraîche and topped with a scattering of toasted almonds, you have an indulgent, boozy, very grown-up elegant-but-easy dessert. And it’s ideal for entertaining as all the elements are make-ahead, leaving nothing left to do last-minute but assemble and serve.

(And, just in case you are pressed for time, you can substitute best quality ice cream for the prunes and crème fraiche. I like coffee, vanilla, rum raisin, caramel or even chocolate for those of you who for whom too much chocolate is never enough. In that case, you can even offer warm chocolate or fudge sauce on the side.

Chocolate Shortcakes with Armagnac Prunes

Begin making the Armagnac prunes 48 hours before serving to allow time for soaking. And, while you’re at it, make extra, as these delicious, boozy prunes will keep in the refrigerator for a year or more. They’re great to pull out last-minute and serve with a pitcher of heavy cream to pour over.

Serves 12

Ingredients

For the Prunes:

40 large pitted prunes
2 cups Armagnac
Brandy or cognac
1½ cups sugar
1 vanilla bean

For the Shortcakes:

40 large pitted prunes
1 cup blanched almonds
½ cup sifted cake flour
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus some for buttering the pan
9 oz semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
4 eggs, yolks whites separated
¾ cup sugar
3 teaspoons vanilla extract
⅓ cup Armagnac
½ cup hot water
1 large pinch of salt
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
2 cups crème fraîche

To serve: Halve each cake and warm slightly in oven if desired. Place bottom half of each cake on a dessert plate. Top with macerated prunes and soaking juices and a dollop of vanilla crème fraîche. Scatter reserved toasted almonds over tops of cakes. Top with remaining cake halves.

Method

For the Prunes:

Place prunes, Armagnac, brandy or cognac, and sugar in a large, non-reactive bowl.
Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape the seeds into bowl and drop in bean. Stir until sugar dissolves.
Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at least 24 hours at room temperature.
After 24 hours, transfer contents of bowl to a large, non-reactive saucepan, set over high heat. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low. Continue to simmer until prunes are soft and a few just begin to fall apart, 6-7 minutes.
Cool and then refrigerate at least 24 hours and up to a year.

For the Shortcakes:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Spread almonds out on a baking sheet and toast in oven until lightly colored, 5-10 minutes. Let cool then pulverize half the toasted almonds with a mortar and pestle or in a food processor. Very coarsely chop remaining almonds and set aside.
Mix sifted cake flour and pulverized almonds in a small bowl until well combined.
Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Continue to cook until butter is lightly browned.
Remove from heat, stir in chocolate, until melted.
Set aside to cool to lukewarm.
Use an electric mixer to beat egg yolks and sugar until pale and thick and sugar has dissolved, about 5 minutes.
Beat in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, ⅓ cup Armagnac and ½ cup hot water.
Add tepid chocolate mixture and beat until well-blended. Add flour-almond mixture and beat only until just combined.
In a separate bowl, use an electric mixer to whisk 4 room-temperature egg whites with salt and cream of tartar until egg whites hold soft peaks but are not stiff.
Stir a quarter of the whites into cake batter and then fold batter into remaining egg whites.
Generously grease a 12-cup muffin tin with softened butter.
Divide batter among buttered muffin tin cups. Rap pan once on countertop to level cake batter and eliminate air bubbles.
Bake on middle rack of oven until cakes puff, edges are firm but centers are still a bit creamy, and small cracks appear on top, 15-20 minutes.
Transfer muffin tin to a wire rack.
Let cakes cool in tin 10 minutes, then invert onto wire rack, using a small knife to loosen if sticking to pan. Let cool to room temperature.
In a small bowl, mix crème fraîche with remaining vanilla extract.
TIP: If you must wait longer than 15 minutes before serving, you can certainly serve the biscuits at room temperature. However, they’re better warm. Simply pop them into a 350°F oven and reheat for about 5 minutes. The biscuits can be baked up to 6 hours before serving.

October 2019 - Oversized Cheddar and Chive Biscuits

October 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

These utterly divine biscuits are good all year ‘round but I particularly like them in fall and winter. Their warm, rich comfort-food quality is particularly satisfying as the air chills.

I’ve been making them since the 1990s when I picked up a freebee recipe card at Manhattan’s BLT Steak. Although I immediately lost the card, I did the best I could to recreate these savory treats based on taste memory. I no longer remember how much they taste like the original, but I do know that they are VERY good.

Serve with basic steak, fish or roast chicken, and turn basic weekday fare into dinner for company. If you prefer, replace the cheddar with Gruyere, Manchego, or even a good blue cheese. It’s hard to go wrong.

Oversized Cheddar + Chive Biscuits

Yields 10-12 Biscuits

Ingredients

1 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Scant 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
6 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 heaping cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
3⁄4 cup very cold heavy cream, plus more as needed
3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Method

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric handheld mixer set on low speed, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and cayenne pepper.
Add the butter and mix on low speed for about 30 to 60 seconds, or until the butter pieces are the size of small peas.
Add the cheese, cream, and chives. Mix until the dough just begins to come together. Do not overmix. The dough should be relatively dry, but if it’s really too dry to come together, add more cream, 1 to 2 teaspoons at a time, as needed.
Turn out onto a floured work surface and gently pat (do not roll with a rolling pin) the dough until it’s about a 1⁄2 inch thick. Fold the dough layer over 5 times and then gently press it into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick.
Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into 12 squares. Alternatively, cut into 10 to 12 circles with 2-inch round biscuit cutter. Place the raw biscuits at least 1 inch apart on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper, cover, and refrigerate.
OR: Instead of following Step 5, the dough for the biscuits can be patted out into 1 large 3⁄4-inch-thick circle, and then cut into 12 wedges; or rolled into logs about 2 inches in diameter and cut into 1-inch thick slices.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Remove biscuits from the refrigerator.
Bake for 18 to 25 minutes, or until golden and cooked through. (If baked straight from the freezer, increase the baking time by at least 5 minutes.)
Remove from the oven. Serve warm, within 15 minutes, if possible.

TIP: If you must wait longer than 15 minutes before serving, you can certainly serve the biscuits at room temperature. However, they’re better warm. Simply pop them into a 350°F oven and reheat for about 5 minutes. The biscuits can be baked up to 6 hours before serving.

September 2019 - Caramelized Plum and Rosemary Polenta Pound Cake

September 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

**CARAMELIZED PLUM + ROSEMARY POLENTA POUND CAKE**

About the Recipe

Plums tend to have a deeper and more complex flavor than peaches and nectarines, their what-you-see-is-what-you-get cousins. Plums are far and away my stone fruit of choice in regard to dessert.

Plums come into season in early summer and abound for at least a month after peaches and nectarines have gone by the wayside. However, plums peak in late summer and early fall. As days shorten, I push to eat outdoors while I still can. And make as many plum desserts as possible. Light-sweater dinners are perfect occasions to pull warm yummy, plummy concoctions out of the culinary hat.

When a recipe calls for cooked plums, roasting, stewing or grilling will do, but nothing beats the luscious richness achieved by caramelization. This may sound complicated but in reality involves nothing more than a few minutes of sautéing the plums with butter and sugar until their juices thicken and darken in color.

With its hint of corn and grainy texture, the polenta in this caramelized plum pound cake offers a complementary contrast to the sweet-tart and slightly yielding quality of the cooked plums. The recipe begins with a plum and citrus sauté, unexpectedly including rosemary. The woody herb adds gusto to the dish and pairs surprisingly well with the plums. The rosemary-infused cooked fruit is alternated with layers of cake batter (to which a few tablespoons of cognac have been added for an extra tender crumb)in a loaf pan and baked until golden. Served warm with whipped cream or vanilla creme fraiche and some extra plums on the side, this dish is my favorite early fall sweet treat.

Caramelized Plum and Rosemary Polenta Pound Cake

Serves 8-10

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

Ingredients

Prepared Plums:

6 large plums, pitted and cut into 6-8 wedges each
1/3 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons cognac (or rum or any brandy)

The Pound Cake:

½ pound unsalted butter, plus more for buttering loaf pan
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 cup yellow cornmeal
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh rosemary
Zest of 1 lemon
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
2 tablespoons cognac (or any brandy)
Prepared plums (recipe below)
Note: All ingredients should be at room temperature

Method

Prepared Plums:

In a medium saucepan, cook plums with sugar, salt, lemon zest and rosemary over medium heat until fruit is very soft but not falling apart, about 10 minutes.
Remove from heat.
Add cognac.

The Pound Cake:

Butter a 5½x10-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper. Butter paper. Set pan aside.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Sift together flour, baking powder, cornmeal and salt.
Cream together butter, rosemary, lemon zest and sugar until very light and fluffy.
Add eggs to butter mixture, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
Beat in flour mixture, alternating with cognac, just until well-combined. Spoon 2/3 of batter into pan. Evenly distribute one-quarter of prepared plums over batter. Add rest of the batter. Spread remaining fruit over the top and, using a spoon or fork, push pieces down a little.
Bake for 60 minutes or until done, testing with a toothpick after 50 minutes. Cake should be nicely brown, pulling away from the edges of the pan and not too dry. Cool in pan for 10 minutes, then invert cake onto your hand or a rack and quickly re-invert it onto another rack.
Serve warm or at room temperature. (The cake is also delicious sliced and toasted.)

August 2019 - Bar Bahia’s Gazpacho Andaluz

August 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Whether chunky or smooth, light or robust, gazpacho is a delightfully refreshing way to start almost any summer meal. Often described as “liquid salad,” Andalusia’s most famous dish first appeared during the Middle Ages. The name most likely derives from the Roman caspa meaning “fragments” or the Hebrew gazaz meaning “to break into pieces,” both words alluding to the broken bread which held center stage—the supporting roles played by water, vinegar and garlic--in all early versions of the soup.

The starchy amalgam represented lunch for local field workers until the 19th century when raw vegetables—typically tomato, onion, cucumber and bell pepper—joined the mix, eventually replacing most or all of the bread. Each Andalusian province developed a signature version; and in no time, the popularity of this nutritious-delicious, multi-purpose answer to V-8 juice spread throughout Spain where it’s still served before, after, or alongside many meals. For me, it's a perfect snack or pick-me-up as well. Long ago, taking my cue from Penelope Casas’ 1996 cookbook, Delicioso, I started keeping a cooling pitcherful in my fridge all summer long. It’s a huge hit and goes quickly, but constant replenishing is child’s play as it's thrown together in minutes. Get a head start and make dinner party versions several days in advance. The soup mellows and flavor deepens while waiting in the fridge.

The recipe below is adapted from Delicioso. Casas gives us Bar Bahia’s legendary take on the traditional tomato dish which she describes as “the standard by which all other gazpachos in Cadiz are measured.” Here--as in many of her recipes-- Casas uses a combination of white wine and sherry vinegars to simulate the taste of a local golden variety. Include lump crabmeat or diced shrimp for a heartier starter or light main course. Scattering the selection of minced veggies atop either version further enhances and beautifies.

Bar Bahia’s Gazpacho Andaluz

Serves 8

Time: 5-10 minutes

Ingredients

2 pounds very ripe, flavorful tomatoes, quartered
3 green frying peppers (approximately 6 ounces total), seeded and coarsely chopped
1 medium organic Kirby cucumber, coarsely chopped (peel if not organic)
1 medium sweet or yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
4-6 cloves garlic, peeled
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt or more to taste
1 teaspoon sugar
6 tablespoons best quality white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons best quality sherry vinegar
1 cup ice water (or part ice, part water)
Finely chopped tomato, green pepper, and/or cucumber for garnish (optional but highly recommended)

Method

Place all ingredients except the water and the garnish vegetables in a blender. Process to as smooth a consistency as possible
Add the 2 cups water
If needed, stir in more salt and vinegar a little at a time until the flavors are completely developed. Chill thoroughly. Add more ice water if too thick and readjust salt and vinegar. Serve in chilled bowls with an ice cube—or several small ones—in each bowl to keep the chill.
If using, sprinkle each portion with the chopped vegetables or pass them in small bowls.

July 2019 - Raisin Cream Scones

July 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

**RAISIN CREAM SCONES**

(plus variations)

About the Recipe

Summer breakfasts--especially on the weekends and often including houseguests--can be lazy and luxurious. Bacon and eggs, sausage, smoked salmon with bagels and cream cheese, waffles, berry pancakes and muffins, croissants and coffee cakes are all divine. But my favorite breakfast treat is a basket of these special scones, warm from the oven served with lots of sweet butter. The mix-ins provide plenty of flavor so no jam required (though gilding the less sweet nut variety with raspberry jam is highly recommended).

I've made these scones for many years. They seem to have a life all their own. When my children were little, sugar-sprinkling the raw product before baking was their favorite household "chore". I sold the confection by the pound to tearooms for years and had the recipe published several times including in the The New York Times.

A bit of a cross between a scone and a cookie, these are not the traditional English teatime fare. Moister and sweeter, they also contain a hefty handful of mix-ins-- raisins, nuts, chocolate chips or candied ginger--and are topped with a thin layer of buttery sugar crunch.

Serve them straight from the oven, warm (they reheat perfectly in a 350F oven) or at room temperature. Ideal first thing in the morning or for snacking all day long, they also easily become dessert: split horizontally--warmed, toasted, or as is--they make instant shortcakes, berry or peach, nectarine, or plum in summer. While in winter, serve caramelized pears with the ginger scones or apples with the nut or raisin variety. Add dollops of ice cream, whipped cream or creme fraiche all versions. Easy and rave-worthy.

RAISIN CREAM SCONES (PLUS VARIATIONS)

Makes approximately 20 scones

Time: 20 minutes active time. 15 minutes to bake.

Ingredients

12 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup sugar plus 2 to 3 extra tablespoons for sprinkling
1 1/3 cups raisins
1 cup cold heavy cream
2 to 3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

Method

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit
Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Stir in raisins.
Pour the cream into the bowl of an electric mixer or large mixing bowl. With the mixer on low or with a fork, mix the ingredients until just combined.
Dump the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead very briefly. Roll the dough to a 1 inch thickness. Using a 1 to 1 1/2 inch cookie or biscuit cutter, cut out the scones. Place them an inch apart on a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet. Reroll the scraps until all the dough has been used.
Paint the scone tops with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar. Place the scones in the middle of the preheated oven and bake 12 to 15 minutes or until golden.
Cool on a rack. Serve the scones warm or at room temperature with butter and jam. Store the scones in an airtight container for 24 hours or freeze for up to 6 weeks.
*To vary the flavor, replace the raisins with 1 1/3 cups toasted walnuts, pecans, mixed nuts, peanuts, hazelnuts, or almonds; or chocolate chips, chopped mixed dried fruits or 1 1/3 cups chopped candied ginger plus 1 teaspoon powdered ginger.

June 2019 - Black Rice Paella

June 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

BLACK RICE PAELLA

with shrimp, scallops, lemongrass and ginger

About the Recipe

This Filipino take on Spanish paella is one of my favorite seafood dishes on the planet. I used memory to recreate a dish I ate in the 1980s at Cendrillon, a fabulous, hole-in-the-wall restaurant then in Soho. I imagine my invention is quite different from the original but I did the best I could. In any case, I promise it is absolutely delish.

And, if you're not familiar with it, black rice---chewy and flavorful-- is fabulous all by itself, let alone enhanced by the seafood and complex, enigmatic sauce.

I admit that this "paella" is a bit of a hassle to prepare, but I find it more than worth the effort, especially when entertaining a crowd: the perfect solution to dinner for 20 or even more. However, if doubling or tripling the recipe, do use 2 or 3 large baking dishes rather than trying to cram everything--piled high--on to one.

This is essentially a one-dish meal though I like to serve a big salad on the side. A fresh fruit and meringue dessert of some sort--a Pavlova would heaven-- is the ideal finale. Though--for those of you who don't have the energy to make meringue--- a huge fruit salad--without the meringue--is perfect in summer. And in winter, tangy citrus or even a simple pear or apple tart fits the bill nicely.

Any version of cold yogurt soup makes a great first course in summer. And in winter I like to surprise people and serve fragrant, light and refreshing spring rolls.

Black Rice Paella with Shrimp, Scallops, Lemongrass and Ginger

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

2 cups black rice
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
4-6 tablespoons neutral vegetable oil (such as canola), divided
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups vegetable stock
1 ½ cups fish stock or clam juice or more vegetable stock
2 stalks lemongrass, pounded and cut into 4 inch lengths
8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 red onion, peeled and minced
1 small jalapeno pepper, minced
1 red bell pepper, finely diced
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 1/2 cups canned coconut milk
4 tablespoons Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce (or more to taste)
juice of 1 lime (or more to taste)
honey to taste (1-3 teaspoons)
2 cups cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 pound sea scallops
2 pounds shrimp
neutral vegetable oil plus garlic plus red pepper flakes for searing seafood
Fresh cilantro and scallions for garnish

Method

First prepare the rice: rinse the rice in a sieve. Heat a 4 quart pot over medium heat. Add 2-3 tablespoons of the oil and heat. When it is hot, add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir, cooking for about 1 minute. Add the stocks and vanilla with the lemongrass pieces. Bring to a boil. Cover and reduce to a simmer until al dente, about 25 minutes. When it is cooked to desired chewiness, drain any excess liquid from the rice and replace rice in the pot. Cover with a lid and keep warm until ready to use or reheat later.
Preheat the oven to 400 F. While the rice is cooking, heat a deep skillet or wok over medium heat. Add 2-3 tablespoons of oil and heat through. Add the red onion, garlic and jalapeno. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the ginger and bell pepper and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring. Add the coconut milk, fish sauce and juice of 1/2 lime. Taste for more lime juice, fish sauce, and some honey to sweeten. Let simmer for 5 minutes or more to let the flavors meld. Stir in the tomatoes. Taste once more for the 3 seasonings--sweet, salty and sour.
Grease a large baking dish. Layer the rice in it (remove the lemongrass if you do not want to pick it out later). Pour the coconut sauce over that. Cover the casserole tightly with foil and place in the preheated oven until very hot, about 25 minutes.
While the casserole is baking, prepare the seafood.
Toss the seafood with salt and pepper. Add oil to a nonstick skillet, heat to sizzling and sear the seafood in batches. After the casserole has baked for 15 minutes, turn the oven heat off. When you are close to finishing the seafood, remove the casserole from the oven (do not let it stay in the oven for longer than 25 minutes), but leave it covered until you are ready with the seafood. Serve the seafood on top of the rice and vegetables. Strew with lots of chopped cilantro and scallions.

May 2019 - Classic Individual Chicken Pot Pies

May 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

CLASSIC INDIVIDUAL CHICKEN POT PIES

with a Seafood Pot Pie Variation

About the Recipe

Even the ancient Romans found it hard to resist succulent ingredients lusciously sauced and encased in flakey, golden pastry. They concocted savory pot pies brimming with game birds, chicken, venison and/or rabbit even before inventing their sweet-version cousins.

My personal pot pie memories are more basic. As a small child, my favorite dinner was classic Swansen’s eaten in front of the Mickey Mouse Club on “maid’s night out”. Though my addiction to The Mouseketeers and Swansen’s was soon outgrown, my basic love of crusty treats was not.

Just out of college, assisted by The Joy of Cooking, I taught myself to make chicken pot pies and then moved right on to variations. A fortuitous discovery was how cleverly the pot pie dealt with leftovers. Favorite stews, fricassees, roast vegetables, and even pastas were crowd-pleasers when redished inside crust.

These homemade creations were well-received, but two imperfections persisted. Bottom crusts absorbed liquid from fillings and turned limp. In addition, getting the filling piping hot and and the pastry simultaneously baked to golden, crispy perfection was above my pay grade.

Seeking solutions, I recalled The Brown Derby’s signature pot pies from my California childhood and checked out the legendary eatery’s 1949 cookbook. An ah-hah moment came when I read that they eliminated the bottom crust entirely. Less was more and sogginess averted. Even more user-friendly, their top crust was a simple piece of cut-out pastry that could be brainlessly baked up to a day ahead, reheated last minute, and laid atop the bubbling filling just before serving.

Whether planning an intimate Sunday supper, a elegant extravaganza, or something in between, individual pot pies or generous portions taken from a larger whole are the quintessential one-dish main course. Easy as pie: Just follow with cheese and a salad before dessert.

The chicken classic below—chock full of freshly cooked poultry and vegetables in a subtly seasoned béchamel--evokes a spring garden. The Cote d’Azur seafood pie is robust and also gorgeous, with pale pink shrimp, creamy scallops, and taupe mushrooms all set off by saffron-yellow sauce and green peas.

Try one of these recipes or be creative with fridge leftovers (adding a bit of liquid if the rejiggered filling seems to dry). You can’t go wrong. Everything tastes better topped with crust.

NOTE: Both recipes can be made as one large pie if desired.

My Classic Chicken Pot Pie

Serves 10-12

Time: about 45-60 minutes

Ingredients

1 1/2 recipes ‘The Brown Derby Crust for Pot Pies’ (below)

For poaching the chicken:

3 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts and/or thighs
4 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
Several sprigs of fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

For the mushrooms:

4-6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 pounds white button mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

6 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
3 large onions, peeled and diced
5 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
4 large carrots, peeled and cut into thin rounds
3 ribs celery, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise
Several sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
One 10-ounce bag frozen pearl onions (thawed)
One 10-ounce bag frozen green peas (thawed)

For the béchamel sauce:

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup flour
2 cups whole milk
6 tablespoons brandy or sherry or a mixture
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg or to taste
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste
Large pinch cayenne pepper
1/3 cup minced chives and/or fresh parsley

NOTE: You will need 10-12 ramekins that are approximately 4 inches high and 5 inches across.

Method

Place the chicken pieces in a large saucepan. Pour the stock over. If it does not cover the chicken, add more till it does. Add smashed garlic and thyme.
Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, and simmer until the chicken is done, about 8 minutes. Don’t overcook.
Transfer the chicken and garlic to a large platter, and reserve the broth in the saucepan. Add or subtract broth so you have exactly 4 cups.
While the chicken is cooking, start the mushrooms: put 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet set over high heat. When melted, add sliced mushrooms, salt and pepper. Add more butter if needed. Cook, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are very tender, about 15 minutes. Add tablespoons of water along the way if too dry. Add cooked mushrooms to the chicken on the platter.
Wipe out skillet and add 4 tablespoons of butter. Set over medium –high heat. When the butter has melted, add the onions, garlic, carrots, celery, thyme, salt and pepper. Saute, stirring frequently until the vegetables are soft and beginning to color, about 15-20 minutes. Add pearl onions and peas and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Add vegetables to the platter.
While the vegetables are cooking, bring the reserved broth to a simmer,. Place the remaining 1 stick of butter in a saucepan—large enough to everything on the platter plus the sauce—over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the flour and cook, stirring for two minutes. Whisk in the hot broth vigorously to avoid lumps. Cook 1 minute and then add the milk and any accumulated juices on the platter. Simmer, stirring, until the sauce fully thickens, about 3 minutes. Add the liquor and cook 1 minute more. Season with nutmeg, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and cayenne.
While the vegetables are cooking, bring the reserved broth to a simmer,. Place the remaining 1 stick of butter in a saucepan—large enough to everything on the platter plus the sauce—over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the flour and cook, stirring for two minutes. Whisk in the hot broth vigorously to avoid lumps. Cook 1 minute and then add the milk and any accumulated juices on the platter. Simmer, stirring, until the sauce fully thickens, about 3 minutes. Add the liquor and cook 1 minute more. Season with nutmeg, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and cayenne.
Place the pot pie covers on a baking sheet and place in the oven to warm.
Divide chicken mixture among ramekins or pot pie dishes. If the mixture is no longer hot, turn the oven up to 350 and return the filled ramekins to the oven until they are. Cover with the reheated pre-baked pastry covers. Serve immediately.

SEAFOOD POT PIE

Serves 8

Time: about 45-60 minutes

Ingredients

3/4 cup unsalted butter divided into three 1/4 cup portions
3 celery ribs, thinly sliced
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and slivered
12 large white button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground black paper to taste
2 cups frozen green peas, thawed
18 large raw shrimp, peeled, deveined and split lengthwise
Six 2-ounce pieces of halibut, monkfish, or cod
9 large sea scallops, halved horizontally
18 large fresh oysters removed from their shells
2 tomatoes diced
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
2 cooked lobster tails, each cut into 6 equal pieces to produce 12 pieces in all
2 medium tomatoes, diced
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon plus more to taste
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4 cup light cream
Large pinch of saffron dissolved in 1 cup strong fish or shellfish stock
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
a few drops of Tabasco sauce to taste
The Brown Derby’s Pastry for Covered Pies (recipe follows)

NOTE: If you cannot find all the seafood, you can substitute with more of the ones you do find. You will need 8 ramekins or pot pie dishes 4 inches high and approximately 5 inches across. Or this can be made as one large pot pie

Method

Preheat the oven to 200. Melt 1/4 cup of the butter in a large skillet or saute pan set over medium heat. Add the celery, onion, and the garlic and cook, stirring frequently until softened, about 10 minutes.
Add the mushrooms and salt and pepper, and cook about 10 minutes more until all vegetables are tender. Transfer the cooked vegetables to a large heatproof bowl. Place in the oven to keep warm.
Melt the second 1/4 cup of butter in the same pan over high heat. When the butter foam begins to subside add the shrimp and the fish and sauté, stirring until the fish begins to color and the shrimp turn red. Add the scallops and salt to taste and cook, stirring for 2 minutes. Then add the oysters and lobster pieces and cook for 1 minute more. Make sure all the seafood is just cooked through.
Transfer the seafood mixture to the bowl containing the cooked vegetables and toss together with the tomato, chives and lemon juice. Keep warm in the oven.
Place the pot pie covers and the ramekins on a baking sheet and place in the oven to warm.
Melt the remaining ¼ cup butter in a medium saucepan. Whisk in the flour and cook stirring for 3 minutes. Whisk in the cream, saffron-infused stock, and thyme and cook, stirring until thickened. If too thick add a bit more cream. If too thin, whisk in one or two eggs yolks. If yolks are added be careful not to boil or the sauce will curdle. Off heat season with salt, pepper, Tabasco Sauce and lemon juice. Fold the sauce gently into the cooked seafood and vegetables. Adjust seasoning. At this point you can continue with the recipe or cool the mixture and refrigerate for up to 24 hours before continuing.
Divide the seafood and vegetable mixture among ramekins or pot pie dishes. If no longer hot, turn the oven up to 350 and return the filled ramekins to the oven until they are. Cover with the reheated prebaked pot pie covers. Serve immediately.

BROWN DERBY PASTRY FOR COVERED PIES

Makes enough pastry for 8 individual pot pies

Time: about 20 minutes plus resting time and 20 minutes to bake

Ingredients

3 cups flour (I like to use 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup whole wheat flour)
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
4-6 tablespoons ice water
1 egg yolk whisked together with 1 tablespoon cream

Method

Place the flour and salt together in a food processor and process fifteen seconds to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the butter pieces are the size of small peas.
Add 4 tablespoons ice water all at once through the feed tube, and process until the dough just begins to come together. Do not let it form a ball. If dough is too dry to come together, add more ice water, 1 teaspoon at a time.
Form the dough into a ball and then press into a disk. Place the disk between two pieces of waxed or parchment paper and roll to about a 1/3-inch thickness. Refrigerate for at least an hour.
Using a 5-inch saucer or bowl rim as a template, cut the dough into eight circles. Refrigerate the cut circles for at least 30 minutes, preferably longer or overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375 F. Place the circles on 1 or 2 baking sheets, paint them with a bit of egg yolk mixture, and bake until golden, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack. Once cool, these pie tops will keep 2-3 days at room temperature.

NOTE: Well-wrapped, the circles may be frozen for up to two months. They can be baked right from the freezer. If frozen, baking time will be a few minutes longer.

April 2019 - Matzoh Brei

April 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

If you aren’t already a fan, take one buttery bite and you will be. Matzoh brei—or fried matzoh, the literal translation from the Hebrew—is a supremely satisfying, buttery scramble of eggs and crumbled matzoh, a Passover favorite for Jews the world over. And, if a small polling of personal friends means anything, it's a huge hit with non-Jews too. Traditionally breakfast fare, this simple substitute for French toast is makes an equally comforting lunch or supper as well.

Some insist that Jews fleeing Egypt invented fried matzoh the minute they hit the Sinai; but in actuality, the basic recipe-- moistened matzoh mixed with a couple of beaten eggs and fried--was invented just 150 years ago--or in Jewish terms, yesterday. Although the recipe remains more or less unchanged, the exact method of preparation varies from family to family. One (probably Sephardic) version treats the mixture like a frittata or big pancake. Brown one side, flip and brown the other, and then cut into wedges to serve. Some cooks add fridge leftovers and/or favorite spices or cook their brei in chicken fat (schmaltz) instead of butter.

A purist, I prefer like my matzoh brei straight up, but my kids eat theirs with maple syrup and various aunts, uncles and cousins swear by garnishes of applesauce and sour cream, jam, jelly or a hefty sprinkling of sugar. Another popular option is to add vanilla, cinnamon and sugar to the egg mixture as though making French toast.

Whether sweet or savory, scrambled or frittata-like, or soft or crunchy, try matzoh brei during Passover, and you’ll discover a million reasons to eat it all year long.

MATZOH BREI (fried Matzoh)

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

8 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 sheets plain matzoh, broken into quarters
8-10 tablespoons unsalted butter

Method

In a mixing bowl, beat the eggs with the salt and pepper. Break the matzoh into irregular, smaller pieces and place in another bowl, add hot water and swish the matzoh around in the water for 20- 30 seconds until softened but not mushy.
Strain well and add the strained matzoh to the egg mixture, tossing gently to coat (trying not to break up the matzoh), set aside.
In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foam begins to subside, and add the eggy matzoh to the hot skillet. Cook undisturbed for 60 seconds and then gently scramble until some bits are brown and some remain soft, about 3-5 minutes. Add more salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

March 2019 - Pasta Salad

March 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

PASTA SALAD WITH ROAST CHICKEN, ROQUEFORT, PEARS, RED GRAPES AND WALNUTS

About the Recipe

I've always loved a good pasta salad.

Until a year or two ago, as in Italy, I saw these salads as firmly ensconced in the carbohydrate camp and I made them accordingly. In Italy, rice and pasta dishes are all about the starch with other ingredients thrown in for flavor, nomenclature and a bit of variety. I followed suit especially as that was back in the 1990s when starch was king, and medical professionals believed that limitless carbohydrates (even the white ones) were the key to good health.

Decades have passed and opinions have changed. Whether to remain au courant or simply because I’ve always preferred a bit less starch, lately I’ve been flipping the ratio and loving the results.

A pasta salad is the ideal repository for extraneous bits and pieces. If you’re even marginally imaginative, any combination of leftover meat, poultry, fish, seafood, sausage, legumes, and vegetables—cannily tossed with olive oil and seasonings or with a first-class vinaigrette—results in a must-eat dish. Now, however, I include only about a quarter of a box (4 ounces) of pasta for 6 generous main course servings, the rest of the bowl consisting of veggies and/or proteins. For even lighter salads, add shredded lettuces or cabbage and extra vegetables.

For those who prefer following a recipe, try my Pasta Salad with Roast Chicken, Roquefort, Pears, Red Grapes and Walnuts. It's divine as written, but welcomes substitutions too. Replace the chicken with smoked turkey, duck or goose or omit. Again, nothing is set in stone so play around; replace the Roquefort and walnuts with chevre and pistachios, or the pears with Granny Smith apples. It’s hard to go wrong here. Extra dressing will keep in the fridge for at least a month. Drizzled over grilled chicken, fish or vegetables, it’s addictive.

And experiment with flipping the ratio with risottos and hot pastas as well. Your Italian nonna may frown, but I think you'll be pleased with the results.

PASTA SALAD WITH ROAST CHICKEN, ROQUEFORT, PEARS, RED GRAPES AND WALNUTS

Serves 8 as a main course or 12-14 as a first course

Ingredients

8 cups roast chicken, cut into bite-size pieces
5-6 ounces penne, rotelle (wheels) or farfalle (bow-tie) cooked al dente according to package directions
1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed and coarsely chopped
3 heads Belgian endive, trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
1 bulb fennel, trimmed and cut into bite-size pieces
3/4 cup seedless red grapes, halved vertically
1 cup crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese
1 cup thinly sliced (crosswise) celery
1/2 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup coarsely chopped mint
¼ cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley
1 medium red onion, halved and sliced into paper thin half rings
2 Bosc pears, ripe but still firm
1 recipe Walnut Vinaigrette (see below)
fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Method

Place all the salad ingredients, except the pears, in a large salad bowl
Core the pears. Slice them into 1/4-inch-thick wedges and add them to the salad
Toss with just enough of the Walnut Vinaigrette to moisten and flavor. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve.

WALNUT VINAIGRETTE

Yield: 3/4–1 cup

Ingredients

1/2 cup walnut oil 
2 tablespoons Sherry or balsamic vinegar 
1 tablespoon grainy mustard
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt  or more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or more to taste
1 large clove garlic, finely minced

Method

Place all vinaigrette ingredients in a lidded jar and shake vigorously until well combined. Set aside for at least 1 hour to let flavors marry. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Use right away or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Bring to room temperature and re-shake the jar before using.

February 2019 - Ginger-Caramelized Pears with Vanilla Creme Fraiche

February 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

2019_Ferbruary_Caramelized+Pears.jpg — GINGER-CARAMELIZED PEARS WITH VANILLA CREME FRAICHE

About the Recipe

This is one of my favorite winter dessert recipes and one of the easiest. You don't even have to peel the pears. I've tweaked a recipe given to me a year or two ago by my close friend Eric Boman, one of the best home cooks (and the very best photographer) I know. If you prefer, serve vanilla ice cream alongside. But for me, the the tang of the creme fraiche is the absolute perfect foil to the caramelly sweetness of the pears.

And if you prefer vanilla-flavored pears to ginger, substitute and a sliced-open vanilla bean for the ginger coins.

GINGER-CARAMELIZED PEARS WITH VANILLA CREME FRAICHE

Serves 6

Ingredients

1 ½ cup sugar
pinch of fine sea salt
6 hard-ripe Bosc or Bartlett pears, halved lengthwise
2-3 inches of fresh ginger, trimmed, peeled and cut into rounds about ¼ inch thick
1 ½ cup crème fraiche or sour cream mixed with 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons Williams Poire (optional)

Method

Choose a large lidded skillet that will hold all the pear halves in one layer. Cover the bottom with 1/8 inch of water and place on a burner over high heat.
Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the water. Tip skillet to mix. Don’t stir.
The sugar mixture will boil and become clear. When browning begins, turn the heat down to low and continue to tilt the skillet to mix. Continue to tilt and mix until the sugar is deep caramel. Take the skillet off the heat.
While the sugar is cooking, use a melon-baller or a sharp knife to remove the seeds from the pear halves. Leave stems and core intact and do not peel.
Place the ginger “coins” in the caramel and the pear halves cut side down on top, in a concentric circle beginning from the outside with the pear halves pointing inward, and then fill in the middle as best you can.
Place the skillet over very low heat and cover. Check after 35 minutes though the pears will probably take longer to cook. The pears are done when a small sharp knife sinks into them without resistance, but if you should overcook them they shrivel up bit but remain every bit as delicious.
Transfer pears to a large platter, cut side up. Discard the ginger (though it's quite delicious if you want to eat it)
Deglaze the skillet with a couple tablespoons of very hot water and 2 tablespoons of Williams Poire if desired. Pour the caramel over the pears on the platter.
Serve warm or at room temperature with Vanilla Creme Fraiche or sour cream on the side.

January 2019 - Semolina Gnocchi

January 1, 2019Gail Monaghan

SEMOLINA GNOCCHI

or Gnocchi alla Romana

About the Recipe

Potato gnocchi is a beloved Italian staple, but after one too many disastrous stabs at making my own, I abandoned ship and instituted a restaurants-only approach to the dish, a policy that remained in place for years until last year when a plate of Italy’s original semolina gnocchi (also called gnocchi alla romana) served at a trattoria just outside Rome caused me to view the concept of the national dumpling in a whole new light. I was told that northern Italians were forming this cucina della nonna specialty from semolina-- a soft yellow durum wheat flour-- long before tomatoes, corn, and potatoes arrived from the New World. Baked instead of boiled, these custardy-within-while-crustily-golden-without delicacies --rich with milk, eggs, butter and cheese--are divine, a surprisingly different animal and infinitely simpler to prepare than their Johnny-come-lately, spud-centric cousins. I was hooked.

A cooking lesson later in the week showed me that making semolina gnocchi is child’s play. Hot, sticky, polenta-like dough is spread on a baking sheet and chilled. Traditionally, round gnocchi are then cut out with a cookie cutter, but I find making square ones using a pizza wheel or sharp knife to be quicker and more efficient as there are no leftover scraps to re-use or discard. Round or square, the dumplings are placed on a baking sheet, sprinkled with cheese and baked in a hot oven until sizzling and crusty-edged. Although semolina gnocchi are often baked shingle style, I prefer laying them flat as they bake more evenly and develop more crunchy, crispy bits which for me are the jewels in their crown. And for make-ahead cooks, once ready to bake, the gnocchi can be refrigerated for 2-3 days--or frozen for at least six months--requiring only heating and browning to serve.

Experiment with various seasonings -- thyme, rosemary or sage instead of nutmeg. As for toppings, the gnocchi pair well with traditional tomato, béchamel, Bolognese and mushroom sauces and virtually any pesto or meat ragout. This dish is winter-perfect but when the weather turns warm, they are divine served straight up with nothing but a cold and crispy green salad alongside.

SEMOLINA GNOCCHI/GNOCCHI ALLA ROMANA

Makes approximately 54 gnocchi

TIME: About 20 minutes active work time. 1 ½-2 ½ hours for chilling and baking.

This is a large recipe. It can be scaled down and/or extra gnocchi can be wrapped well and refrigerated for several days or frozen for at least 6 months.

Ingredients

6 cups whole milk
a scant ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 ¼ cup fine semolina
11 tablespooons unsalted butter, divided--8 tablespoons and 3 tablespoons--- cut into small pieces, plus more for greasing the pan
11 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gruyere or a mixture of the two, plus approximately 3 ½ cups more for sprinkling.
2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon fine sea salt or more to taste
½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper or more to taste

Method

Bring milk and nutmeg to a simmer in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat.
Off heat, whisk the semolina in a steady stream.
Reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the semolina pulls away from the sides as a mass and a skin forms on the bottom of the pot, about 2-3 minutes.
Remove from the heat and stir in 6 tablespoons of the butter, the grated cheese, and egg yolks. Stir well between additions to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pour the hot mixture onto a buttered aluminum foil-lined half sheet pan (approximately 18”x13”). If you don’t have an pan the right size, you can use multiple smaller pans or just spread a large piece of greased aluminum foil on the counter and form a rectangle approximately 18x12 on it.
Spread--preferably with an offset spatula--to an even thickness somewhere between (½ inch – 1 inch). Let cool completely. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 500 with rack in the highest position.
Use a sharp knife or pizza wheel to cut the semolina into 2-inch squares.
Lay the cut gnocchi at least 1/2-inch apart on a parchment-lined sheet pan or baking dish.
Dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and sprinkle with approximately 1 tablespoon of grated cheese per gnocchi. Bake until golden brown, about 10-15 minutes Pour off any excess butter and serve, 3 per person, optionally accompanied by quick tomato sauce or another sauce of your choice.

QUICK TOMATO SAUCE

Makes approximately 5 cups of sauce

Time: About 15-20 minutes

Ingredients:

1 large onion, chopped
large pinch red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 28-ounce cans chopped tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
6 cloves of garlic, minced or pressed
2 teaspoons fine sea salt or more to taste. Don’t undersalt
Large pinch of sugar
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup roughly chopped basil

Method

In a large skillet sauté the onion until golden. Add the pepper flakes and stir for 30 seconds.
Add everything else and cook over high heat, stirring frequently and vigorously--be careful that the bottom does not scorch--for 10-15 minutes or until enough water has evaporated that a good sauce consistency--a bit thicker than heavy cream-- is reached.
Remove from heat and stir in basil. basil at the end. Adjust salt and pepper.

TIP:

Sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated for at least a week or frozen for months. Reheat before serving